Best way to mill lumber w/o a mill?

[BigguyZ]

I have a 18" diameter, about 36" long log from an Elm tree that my parents took down (well, part of it took itself down, if you know what I mean). Our house is a historical house, and before the Dutch Elm disease swept through Wisconsin, the house was actually named "The Elms", as there were 5 large elm trees on the property. These were smaller trees that hadn't died yet, but now that they're gone, I'd like to make them into lumber to make a small project or two out of. After all, even if the trees are gone, something of them should remain with the house.

So, I have access to a chainsaw, and a 14" bandsaw. What's the most efficient/ safest way to mill this? I just want enough boards to maybe make a small end table, and maybe some bowls (though I have some smaller pieces for that as well).

Anyone use elm? How is it to work with?

[woodturner]

I have a 18" diameter, about 36" long log from an Elm tree ...
So, I have access to a chainsaw, and a 14" bandsaw. What's the most efficient/ safest way to mill this?

HF sells a chainsaw mill for around $15. I have used that to split logs to size that can be managed on the bandsaw. Works OK, but there will be more waste than with a band mill.

If you can find someone with a band mill, you will save more wood if you have them cut it for you.

[BigguyZ]

I'm willing to loose the bit for the chainsaw mill. To you have a link to the item #? The search feature is pulling up a ton of stuff when I look up Chainsaw Mill.

Other sites look like they have them for $150 or so, so $15 would be definitely worth taking flyer on.

[woodturner]

I'm willing to loose the bit for the chainsaw mill. To you have a link to the item #?

I think it is 41085 http://hfreviews.com/item.php?id=1171

However, I don't see it on the HF website, so maybe they have discontinued it.

Might be worth checking with the store, if you have one in your area.

[LCHIEN]

I think this is the same idea from Northern tool...

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200326318_200326318?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Logging-_-Saw%20Milling%20%2B%20Accessories-_-11890&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=11890&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=11890&gclid=COeu95Shk74CFS9p7AodkiYA8A

just saw (viewed) it, not endorsing its use ...

another article:

http://www.toolerant.com/the-portable-chainsaw-mill-a-resurgence-in-diy-construction/

[dbhost]

I think this is the same idea from Northern tool...

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200326318_200326318?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Logging-_-Saw%20Milling%20%2B%20Accessories-_-11890&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=11890&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=11890&gclid=COeu95Shk74CFS9p7AodkiYA8A

just saw (viewed) it, not endorsing its use ...

another article:
http://www.toolerant.com/the-portabl...-construction/

I think Harbor Freight dropped the Mculloch Lumber Maker maybe 2 or 3 years ago... That one Loring points to at Northern is pretty much the same sort of thing... Functions the same anyway. That should get ya going for sure!

[capncarl]

I recently cut up some short pecan logs about that size with a chain saw mill. The waste was terrible, and the accuracy was crap. By the time the wood was planed to a usable thickness I bet the loss was 50%. A band saw mill does not waste that much and the tracks seem to be more accurate. For wood that has much value to you I would look for something to get the most wood and less waste.

[woodturner]

I think Harbor Freight dropped the Mculloch Lumber Maker maybe 2 or 3 years ago... That one Loring points to at Northern is pretty much the same sort of thing... Functions the same anyway. That should get ya going for sure!

Cost is a lot higher, though.

If the grain in the log is pretty straight, the OP might be able to split the log with a wedge. Once it is split in half, he should be able to cut it on the bandsaw.

[dbhost]

Cost is a lot higher, though.

If the grain in the log is pretty straight, the OP might be able to split the log with a wedge. Once it is split in half, he should be able to cut it on the bandsaw.

I was actually pondering if the OP had access to a log splitter. That would make the whole thing a LOT easier to deal with. Just split it roughly in the middle, then band saw mill it...

The OP did not mention if he had a riser block on the 14" band saw, so I have to assume a maximum resaw depth of 6". So split it in quarters, and effectively quarter saw that sucker. No matter the method other than perhaps getting your hands on a bandmill, you are going to lose a good chunk to waste. But splitting / resawing on the band saw would be less wasteful.

[Healey]

Can't split elm

Good luck trying to split elm, it ain't gonna happen, the grain is so twisted and intertwined. That's why wagon wheel hubs were made from it. I actually tried it once with some elm given to me for firewood.

[BigguyZ]

Well, I do have a riser on that bandsaw. I'll need to move it from my old shop to my new shop, set it up again, and get a new blade made, but that's a possibility I guess. I need to get in gear and get that moved ASAP.

The chainsaw mill in Loring's second link seems like a good option if I did go that way. Thing I like about that idea is that I'd just need the mill/ guide, and I would be bringing the tool to the work, and not having to lift/ balance a large log on a bandsaw. But the point about waste is a good one. I only really have one shot at this...

[bmyers]

Don't forget the rip chain if your going to try the chainsaw method.

If you do try that kind of setup, please let us know how it goes. I've been pondering that method as well to cut logs down to size for my Delta Limber Co. mill.



Bill

[Eric]

I've done some cherry, plum and western red cedar over the years on my 14" bandsaw.

I usually buck it into about 2 foot lengths to make it more manageable on the bandsaw. You can screw it onto a carrier board and resaw it. I have ripped a flat edge with the chainsaw and used that to ride against a fence on the bandsaw.

Then joint and plane it to final size.

Here's what one bt3er did. http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=38638

[Brian G]

Hey, I recognize that method!

I think BigGuyZ is strong enough to heft an 18" x 36" wet log, but I'm not.

One more problem with elm is drying it without it twisting, warping, and bowing. The twisted and intertwined grain that Healey mentioned contributes to that. If you do slab it, dry it low and slow, like you're smoking ribs.

Dang. . . now I want smoked ribs.

[capncarl]

If you do kiln dry it, use cherry wood to fuel the kiln, it gives it that nice smoke ring and nice bark!. It will still taste like a board. I use mostly old growth pine reclaimed from old barns. A few boards I salvaged came from a partially burned building, and even after milling and drying in my shop for a year they still have that distintictive smoke smell. Not sure how that will go over in the house.