some DIY wooden Cam clamps this weekend

[LCHIEN]

Just to see if I could do it.
I kinda rushed through it, learned a few things. Made one, then another the second came out better but the jaws were'n't quite parallel,
I could make some more from cut pieces but I have to say the Quick grips work much better. Still a good excercise in picking the right techniques.
Wood was some Brazilian Cherry reclaims from Lumber liquidator pallets.

Some things I learned:
grain should run vertically in the jaws or the split you cut will continue to split (duh should have been obvious but it was one of the things I forgot to think about when I started cutting)
not too hard to cut a 1.25" deep, 1.25" long 3/8" slot and a 1.25" deep 3" long 3/8" slot in hardwood but its hard to do it well.
plans off the internet can have errors!

[LCHIEN]

instructions

Tip #115 Make Your Own Cam Clamps
If you're like most woodworkers, sometimes you just never seem to
have enough clamps. And the clamps you do have take forever to
unscrew and tighten down again. Here's one possible solution for your
problem: cam clamps. They’re simple and inexpensive to build - you can
make a dozen of them in an evening - and they’re even simpler to use.
Just one flick of the wrist and you can exert 200-300 pounds of pressure.
Plan of Procedure
1. Cut all stock to size. Take special care to cut the bar stock accurately. Cut
out the cam with your Bandsaw or Scroll Saw and carefully sand the flat spot
shown in the drawing, using your Disc Sander.
2. Drill all holes, except for those in the bar. Clamp jaws together and cut the
recess by making a series of 3/8" holes. Use the same technique to cut the bar
slots. Use a rasp or file to smooth the inside of the recess and the slots.
3. Using your Dado set-up to cut the dado for the cam in the sliding jaw...then
wsitch to a regular saw blade to cut the long saw kerf. This kerf allows the cam
to open and close the jaw, exerting pressure on the pieces being clamped.
Assemble the cam to the jaw, using a 3/8” diameter dowel pin as a pivot.
IMPORTANT: Do not apply glue to the full length of the dowel pin, as it has
to rotate in the clamp body in order for the cam to move and do its job.
4. Round the edge of the bar with a shaper or plane. A Radi-Plane is the ideal tool for this job. Assemble the
stationary jaw to the bar, drill holes in the bar (using jaw holes as guides), and insert dowel pins.
5. Assemble the sliding jaw to the bar, drill a hole in the end of the bar opposite the stationary jaw, and insert a
dowel pin as a stop peg.
6. Glue cork onto the jaw faces. To use, simply slide the jaw to the desired opening, place the piece to be
clamped in between the jaw faces and flip the cam lever.
Bill of Materials (in inches)
Use Rock Maple, Beech, Ash or Oak
A. Jaws(2) 1-1/4 x 1-1/4 x 7
B. Cam 1-1/4 x 4-1/4 x 3/8
C. Bar 1-1/4 x 3/8 x 40(or shorter)
D. Pegs (4) 1-1/4 x 3/8 dia.
E. Cork (2) 1-1/4 x 1-1/4 x 1/16