I've been infected by the green fever

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  • Cochese
    Veteran Member
    • Jun 2010
    • 1988

    #61
    Originally posted by lrr
    I finally broke down and ordered my Domino 500 before the price increase. I have it, it looks amazing. But I've had a nasty cold and it has sat for 6 days untouched. Bummer!

    But, I've been browsing some YouTube videos on how to use, and some project ideas, and can hardly wait to get started on a couple projects I have on my list.

    Perhaps the most amazing part of opening up the package was the question from my wife -- "How much did that cost?". I told the truth. She just shook her head. Especially since I said I wasn't doing any shopping for awhile. We leave for Europe next week, to celebrate our 40th. And our youngest daughter is getting married this summer. At some point you just don't even add up the expenses...

    Festool collection really is an addiction ...
    Enjoy your trip, it's one I've wanted to take for a while. Hopefully one day.

    The Domino does have a learning curve. It mainly depends on your ability to get used to how you mark your plunges. It's extremely easy to mix up which face you want to reference off of. I also don't trust the pins, but mark everything.

    The Domino isn't my favorite, but I feel like it does the most to help me put projects together. No lock miters, no rabbets, no dados...just mark a couple of lines and get to work. It's not the strongest joint I could do, but it's one of the fastest.
    I have a little blog about my shop

    Comment

    • Neal
      Established Member
      • Apr 2012
      • 181
      • Williamstown, WV (Mid Ohio Valley)
      • Ryobi BT3000

      #62
      I acquired a used DF500 in the cold months, and have had a few chances to play with it. There is a learning curve I'm still trying to climb.

      I did make a cart for my CT Midi and Dust Deputy though.

      I've used my OF1400 once, but not in a significant amount. It does handle nicely.

      I've yet to use my sander.

      Comment

      • jussi
        Veteran Member
        • Jan 2007
        • 2162

        #63
        Originally posted by Neal
        I acquired a used DF500 in the cold months, and have had a few chances to play with it. There is a learning curve I'm still trying to climb.

        .
        Grabbing it at the base of the cord helped me out alot
        I reject your reality and substitute my own.

        Comment

        • Cochese
          Veteran Member
          • Jun 2010
          • 1988

          #64
          I had wanted to upgrade my shelf pin jig recently, and I went with the Woodpecker. I had the Rockler, and wanted to start using a router. It was a good jig, but for a few reasons I returned it, spent more money, and ended up with the Festool as per usual. I bought the $250 LR32 set and the 1400 rail. More money, but I think it's going to work for me better and be a bit more multi-use.
          I have a little blog about my shop

          Comment

          • JimD
            Veteran Member
            • Feb 2003
            • 4187
            • Lexington, SC.

            #65
            I like the Kreg jig for shelf pin holes. It spaces them at 32mm intervals and can be used with either 5mm or 1/4 inch drill bits. Very well thought out as usual for Kreg. About $30.

            Still resisting the Kool-Aid.

            Comment

            • Cochese
              Veteran Member
              • Jun 2010
              • 1988

              #66
              The Woodpecker jig is very nice. Probably the nicest out there not named Festool or Meg. My issue was that I was unsure of the accuracy inside of a panel. Middle column, if you will. Not up and down, but side to side. For shelf pins, not a big deal. For drawer slides, I saw it as a potential issue. If you aren't planning on placing hokes for drawer slides before you assemble, it isn't a concern. I used the Rockler jig to locate the drawer slides on my systainer storage, and the back hole was off by a millimeter or two. I wanted more accuracy for kitchen cabinets. Not all need it, but I knew I would keep wanting it so I just bit the bullet. Between this and the Incra fence, my routing needs should be completely covered.
              I have a little blog about my shop

              Comment

              • jussi
                Veteran Member
                • Jan 2007
                • 2162

                #67
                Are you using removeable drawer slides? If so, which ones?
                I reject your reality and substitute my own.

                Comment

                • Cochese
                  Veteran Member
                  • Jun 2010
                  • 1988

                  #68
                  Originally posted by jussi
                  Are you using removeable drawer slides? If so, which ones?
                  Removable? I suppose they're all removable.

                  For the sysports I used KV TT100 slides from WWHardware. I think just about any drawer slide you buy is based off the 32mm system, at least the full and 3/4 epoxy I've bought from them, and the shorter slides I just pulled off of a dresser. It's the reason I went with the LR32. Now, if you have a way to turn your shelf pin jig (32mm compatible) 90° and register it securely on the face and your 37mm front hole, it will work fine, but you'll be drilling one hole at a time. That's the drawback of the other jigs I think.

                  I looked at my bookcase and other projects, and thought it made sense to put the rear shelf pins in the exact spot that a drawer slide would attach. Two uses, one operation. I can build drawers down the line, and it would take all of about thirty seconds to locate and drive 5mm Euro screws home, and put the drawer in.

                  Now, the next thing I need to do is figure out the 32mm system, how high things are, and such. Where to locate your upper drawer, face frame, etc. I'll be reading up on that this week, probably watching some videos. I know one of the vids bigerock did is an explanation. Depending on what other use I need for the new router table, that will be my first practical application.

                  For those of you looking at the various LR32 kits, I'll break down exactly what's in them, because it was confusing to me.

                  LR32 Sys - $495: Plate, centering mandrel, edge (side) stops (2), end stops (2), 5mm brad bit, 5mm point bit (for through holes), 35mm hinge bit, rail clamps (2), hex wrench, systainer, insert, paper display insert

                  LR32 Set - $249: Plate, centering mandrel, edge stops (2), end stops (2)

                  LR 32 plate - $124: Plate, centering mandrel

                  The edge stops give your offset from the front or the rear of the panel. Your end stops dictate where you begin and end your line of holes. They also register where your hinge holes go, both 5mm and 35mm.


                  Again, you can do all of this with other jigs. However, you will have to do a good bit more measuring/laying out for each set of holes you drill, if you are doing holes a certain distance back from the rear or the hinge holes. For all the projects I have on my list, convenience was a big factor. The other factor (albeit a minor one) that convinced me to LR32 it was the ability to use 7mm shelf pin sleeves down the road. They are absolutely pimp. http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware...=3,43648,43649
                  Last edited by Cochese; 04-26-2015, 05:39 PM.
                  I have a little blog about my shop

                  Comment

                  • JimD
                    Veteran Member
                    • Feb 2003
                    • 4187
                    • Lexington, SC.

                    #69
                    I have no doubt the Festool LR32 system will accurately bore shelf pin holes and holes for European hinges. I suspect it will be more accurate than the ways I have done this. I used to use a home made jig for my plunge router. It probably made the cleanest holes. It also burned sometimes. I decided to switch to drilled holes and used the Rockler jig first. It was pretty accurate but is mostly plastic and the holes it made were often torn out a little. Then I tried the Kreg jig. The bit is better so the holes are cleaner. The spacing is 32mm and the jig has offsets for European hinge screws molded in. Nothing like the Festool since it uses plastic with steel bushings for the drill bit. Nothing like the Festool in price either. I've made dozens of cabinets with my various jigs. All worked fine.

                    Boring holes with a router isn't faster then drilling them. I've done both. If anything drilling is faster. Spacing may be a little more accurate with the Festool and holes might be a little cleaner. I'd also rather listen to a drill than a router. But no dust collection on the drill either.

                    Comment

                    • Cochese
                      Veteran Member
                      • Jun 2010
                      • 1988

                      #70
                      It looks like next upgrade path is the DTS400. I don't currently have a way to get into corners to sand, outside of this little Ryobi cordless corner cat, which I'm out of paper for. I normally have the thought that I would sand everything before assembly, however thinking of sanding between coats of finishes, I really can't do that. The ETS will get everything except that square couple of inches at a corner. I thought about the RTS, but perhaps not every corner would be square, although that's my design goal. I have to pay this latest round off first, though. If I can sell some tools, that will help.

                      Plus/minus on the RTS vs DTS? Really trying to go after needs now, versus wants, thinking about upcoming projects. Bunch of honey-dos around the house, although it's really my want to do them.
                      I have a little blog about my shop

                      Comment

                      • Neal
                        Established Member
                        • Apr 2012
                        • 181
                        • Williamstown, WV (Mid Ohio Valley)
                        • Ryobi BT3000

                        #71
                        Over on another forum (specific to festool) is a thread about using he RTS400 base on the DTS body. You can apparently buy a couple of parts, and the rectangular base will mount to the body (and probably vice versa). It would void the warranty. but the part is like $40 or less. You would have the time for change over if you needed to.

                        Comment

                        • Cochese
                          Veteran Member
                          • Jun 2010
                          • 1988

                          #72
                          Originally posted by Neal
                          Over on another forum (specific to festool) is a thread about using he RTS400 base on the DTS body. You can apparently buy a couple of parts, and the rectangular base will mount to the body (and probably vice versa). It would void the warranty. but the part is like $40 or less. You would have the time for change over if you needed to.
                          I did see that. The benefit I see to the RTS is having four corners of the paper to work with, and the paper is used on the linear sander, although I don't know if I'd ever have a need for that. I'm considering the RO90 as well, with the delta head.
                          I have a little blog about my shop

                          Comment

                          • Neal
                            Established Member
                            • Apr 2012
                            • 181
                            • Williamstown, WV (Mid Ohio Valley)
                            • Ryobi BT3000

                            #73
                            I thought long and hard about the RO90, but the small size just didn't appeal to me at this time. I did pick up a DTS400 to go with my ETS150/3. If need to add the rectangular base at some point, I will. I am thinking if I decide to go for one of their more aggressive sanders I'll pop for the RO150, but I'm not headed in that direction any time soon. At least there is a common size of sandpaper (which isn't inexpensive in its own right, but it does last a while.)

                            Comment

                            • jussi
                              Veteran Member
                              • Jan 2007
                              • 2162

                              #74
                              I've had the dts400 for a couple of years and like it. It's great for corners and is good for light sanding. I recently bought the RO90 during the last recon sale. I've only used it the the delta head once so far but really like it as well. I have a feeling it will probably replace the dts400. The orbital head is great for rails and stiles where a smaller diameter gives you less tenancy to go over the edge.
                              I reject your reality and substitute my own.

                              Comment

                              • Cochese
                                Veteran Member
                                • Jun 2010
                                • 1988

                                #75
                                I got to try out the LR32 just now. Totally worth it.

                                Super clean holes, super minimal tearout, bang-on perfect all the way down the line. I attempted to put in the back holes to line up with the drawer slides, however my math was off. My fault, not the tool. A couple mm closer to the front than I wanted. I'll try again later, on a panel that I take a bit better measurement on.
                                I have a little blog about my shop

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