Workbench plan/build thread

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  • chopnhack
    Veteran Member
    • Oct 2006
    • 3779
    • Florida
    • Ryobi BT3100

    #16
    From what I recall of the steps in producing a bench using construction lumber, the order was to let the wood season first, then to cut to rough size. After cutting, joint and plane to final size and glue up into blanks on the same day to prevent movement from occurring.
    I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

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    • Cochese
      Veteran Member
      • Jun 2010
      • 1988

      #17
      When I go out to the shop tomorrow I will be looking at two ~12.5" wide sections of the top that I will have to somehow get nice and flat before I glue them together. Not really caring to make a router sled, so I may shim the pieces on the bottom to be able to run them through the planer instead.

      I have no idea.
      I have a little blog about my shop

      Comment

      • chopnhack
        Veteran Member
        • Oct 2006
        • 3779
        • Florida
        • Ryobi BT3100

        #18
        If hand planing is out of the question, you may want to look around for planer sleds. There are some threads on this board about their use.
        I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

        Comment

        • Cochese
          Veteran Member
          • Jun 2010
          • 1988

          #19
          I built a router sled and it worked wonderfully. The two halves are in glue up right now, but I already regret not jointing the two mating faces again. Have to see how it turns out tomorrow. Might be sawing it apart and jointing.

          Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2
          I have a little blog about my shop

          Comment

          • mpc
            Senior Member
            • Feb 2005
            • 979
            • Cypress, CA, USA.
            • BT3000 orig 13amp model

            #20
            If you do end up cutting it apart... consider leaving it as multiple pieces when done. Get a long boring drill bit and drill a few holes all the way through the pieces (located so they don't interfere with dog holes, present & future vice locations, etc) and use threaded rod with washers & nuts to hold the pieces together. This way you can disassemble it in the future if/when the top gets beat up and run the pieces through the planer or drum sander or router sled again.

            I'd also run a half inch or so wide, 1 inch deep slot along the mating faces and use that to hold a spline. The spline will help future alignment.

            mpc

            edit: another option instead of running bolts all the way through the pieces: use the fasteners designed for underneath countertop joins. They're a lot smaller (no drilling holes 2 feet long!) and are designed to tightly pull the pieces together. They use a pair of large round holes (similar to the "cup" holes of Euro style cabinet hinges) - one in each piece - joined by a drilled hole for a threaded rod that connects the two holes. See Rockler's example
            Last edited by mpc; 08-27-2012, 01:46 AM.

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            • Cochese
              Veteran Member
              • Jun 2010
              • 1988

              #21
              The top is fine structurally, just a slight cosmetic defect. Actually, a few cosmetic defects all around. Base is assembled and attached to the top. Working on the end vice right now.



              Last edited by Cochese; 08-27-2012, 08:38 PM.
              I have a little blog about my shop

              Comment

              • Cochese
                Veteran Member
                • Jun 2010
                • 1988

                #22
                It's finally right-side up and in place. The end vise is installed. No pics, as the shop is an absolute disaster area. Next couple of days are probably going to be dedicated to fixing the mess. Will see what I can do with flattening the top and putting dog holes in later.
                I have a little blog about my shop

                Comment

                • Cochese
                  Veteran Member
                  • Jun 2010
                  • 1988

                  #23
                  Oh, and my Gramercy holdfasts came today. These things are really nice, I'm glad I chose them. Will have to figure out just exactly how to make them 'stick'.
                  I have a little blog about my shop

                  Comment

                  • Cochese
                    Veteran Member
                    • Jun 2010
                    • 1988

                    #24
                    First pictures of the 'completed' bench for you to enjoy. Haven't even put these on the blog yet.



                    Picture 1-2: the Gramercy Holdfasts, and some 220-grit to help them stick in the holes
                    Picture 3-5: trying out the holdfasts in the legs. Works well, I can edge joint this piece without worry
                    Picture 6: Glamour shot
                    Picture 7: trouble with the counterbores
                    Picture 8: Assembly oops. Tenon was probably a smidge too high and didn't know about it until everything else was already buttoned up.
                    Picture 9: Holdfast storage
                    Last edited by Cochese; 08-29-2012, 01:23 PM.
                    I have a little blog about my shop

                    Comment

                    • wardprobst
                      Senior Member
                      • Jan 2006
                      • 681
                      • Wichita Falls, TX, USA.
                      • Craftsman 22811

                      #25
                      Nice work, looking good.
                      DP
                      www.wardprobst.com

                      Comment

                      • pelligrini
                        Veteran Member
                        • Apr 2007
                        • 4217
                        • Fort Worth, TX
                        • Craftsman 21829

                        #26
                        Looks Good, you're really going to enjoy a proper bench. I know I have.
                        Don't worry about the cosmetic defects, there will be a whole bunch more after some use.
                        Erik

                        Comment

                        • chopnhack
                          Veteran Member
                          • Oct 2006
                          • 3779
                          • Florida
                          • Ryobi BT3100

                          #27
                          How did you chamfer the holes for your holdfasts? 4 holdfasts seems like 2 too many, let me get you my address
                          I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

                          Comment

                          • Cochese
                            Veteran Member
                            • Jun 2010
                            • 1988

                            #28
                            Roundover bit. Set...a bit too deep. Turned out well there, though. Will have to be a bit more careful in the top.

                            Going to do some research over the next few days and see just where I want the front row holes to be. The middle of the end vise is about 7" from the front, which seems too far, but it also seems like I'd want to line up the strongest part of the vise.

                            I'm planning on using two in the legs, two in the top. I suppose I could have gotten away with one set, but I figured I might as well be able to clamp in three dimensions if necessary.

                            Quick service from TFWW as well, got a little handwritten note on my invoice as well.
                            Last edited by Cochese; 08-30-2012, 07:40 AM.
                            I have a little blog about my shop

                            Comment

                            • chopnhack
                              Veteran Member
                              • Oct 2006
                              • 3779
                              • Florida
                              • Ryobi BT3100

                              #29
                              Happy mistake, the chamfer looks great and being syp, will prevent splintering of the wood when the holdfasts are moved around.
                              I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

                              Comment

                              • Cochese
                                Veteran Member
                                • Jun 2010
                                • 1988

                                #30
                                So, it took me this long to work up the courage to flatten the top. With my recent 'remodel' giving me more energy than ever, I made it my mission to get that done today.

                                I bought a pine board from Lowe's, thinking it would be easier to wrangle into shape than dimensional lumber. Jointed the board and sawed it in two and clamped it to the workbench. Used TWW's technique of string to get the boards in the same plane and created a router sled. From there, it was showtime. I marked the surface in case what I was removing was very light. It was probably 1/8" all over, meaning that my original lamination was pretty dang good.





                                Only made one mistake where one end of the sled came off the board. I also inadvertently used pressure in parts, meaning I had faint lines and different depths of cut. Quite a bit of 60 grit took care of most of it. Pleased, I even started on the 3/4" dog holes.



                                Good old fashioned brace work. 12 of the 23 holes on the front section are done, 3" apart. The rear will get ones either 9" or 12" apart. I'm very excited and pleased. If you look closely, you can see I polished up the top of three of the vise bolts up nicely with the router bit.
                                I have a little blog about my shop

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