Plexiglass residue removal

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  • pelligrini
    Veteran Member
    • Apr 2007
    • 4217
    • Fort Worth, TX
    • Craftsman 21829

    Plexiglass residue removal

    I just got through cutting a bunch of plexiglass (actual plexi, not sure) with my 21829 OEM blade and it has a bunch of melted plastic on it. What's a good removal method?

    What really sucks was that I cleaned all of my sawblades last night, including this one. I thought the white stuff on the blade was PVC, but it's the same as this acrylic I was cutting today. I cleaned it with a razorblade, an xacto, and steel wool last night. I don't want to go through that mess again. Is there a solvent that will work, without creating a gummy mess of a coating?
    Erik
  • Tom Slick
    Veteran Member
    • May 2005
    • 2913
    • Paso Robles, Calif, USA.
    • sears BT3 clone

    #2
    Carburetor cleaner may dissolve the acrylic if it has enough MEK in it. Otherwise straight MEK should dissolve it if you let it soak long enough.
    Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. - Thomas Edison

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    • cabinetman
      Gone but not Forgotten RIP
      • Jun 2006
      • 15218
      • So. Florida
      • Delta

      #3
      Originally posted by pelligrini
      I just got through cutting a bunch of plexiglass (actual plexi, not sure) with my 21829 OEM blade and it has a bunch of melted plastic on it. What's a good removal method?

      What really sucks was that I cleaned all of my sawblades last night, including this one. I thought the white stuff on the blade was PVC, but it's the same as this acrylic I was cutting today. I cleaned it with a razorblade, an xacto, and steel wool last night. I don't want to go through that mess again. Is there a solvent that will work, without creating a gummy mess of a coating?
      If you run the blade high, you'll get less buildup. You may have to adjust your feed rate a bit faster to cut down on the slag. Depending how bad it is, you could just use a brass brush to knock it off, or cut some hardwood, which should remove some of it. For solvents, lacquer thinner will dissolve the material, and could get gummy.

      .
      .
      Last edited by cabinetman; 03-03-2012, 01:49 PM.

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      • pelligrini
        Veteran Member
        • Apr 2007
        • 4217
        • Fort Worth, TX
        • Craftsman 21829

        #4
        Most of the cuts were done with a high blade without too much buildup, but I had to do some narrow rips so I lowered it quite a bit. I save the stock blade for rough stuff now. Should have used a higher tooth count blade then the OEM 36T too, but I don't have a high tooth count blade I would want to use with it. It took me quite a while to clean up a 50T freud last night. I had to scrape all three sides of each tooth...
        Erik

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        • cabinetman
          Gone but not Forgotten RIP
          • Jun 2006
          • 15218
          • So. Florida
          • Delta

          #5
          Originally posted by pelligrini
          Most of the cuts were done with a high blade without too much buildup, but I had to do some narrow rips so I lowered it quite a bit. I save the stock blade for rough stuff now. Should have used a higher tooth count blade then the OEM 36T too, but I don't have a high tooth count blade I would want to use with it. It took me quite a while to clean up a 50T freud last night. I had to scrape all three sides of each tooth...

          I use a 60T up to and including 1/2". For 3/4" up to 1.25" (including polycarbonate) 50T.

          .

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          • LCHIEN
            Internet Fact Checker
            • Dec 2002
            • 20914
            • Katy, TX, USA.
            • BT3000 vintage 1999

            #6
            i think i like to feed plexiglas, acrylic and plastic pretty fast to prevent melting like you experienced.

            Good idea is to use dust collection, too, as otherwise it will be snowing afterwards.
            Loring in Katy, TX USA
            If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
            BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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            • cabinetman
              Gone but not Forgotten RIP
              • Jun 2006
              • 15218
              • So. Florida
              • Delta

              #7
              Originally posted by LCHIEN
              Good idea is to use dust collection, too, as otherwise it will be snowing afterwards.
              Same holds for cutting solid surface (like Corian).

              .

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              • jabe
                Senior Member
                • Apr 2006
                • 566
                • Hilo, Hawaii
                • Ryobi BT3000 & Delta Milwaukee 10" tilting Table circular saw

                #8
                Another way to cut plexiglass or plastic is to use a straight edge and score it and snap it. Much like cutting glass. Most hardware stores sell plastic scoring tool or you can use a scratch awl. I usually score it on both sides a couple of times then place the scored line on the edge of my work bench hold it down firmly or clamp it (use a caul) right on the scored line. Then a quick push down on the overhanging plastic and it should break cleanly on the scored line. After sanding the edge a little, pass a flame from a propane torch over the edge quickly (this takes practice), and it'll melt the edge and give it a polished look. Practice with thin plastic first, this technique can be used up to 1/4" thick plastic, any thicker is a gamble. I learned this during the 60's when I was a sheetmetal worker in the shipyard.

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                • cabinetman
                  Gone but not Forgotten RIP
                  • Jun 2006
                  • 15218
                  • So. Florida
                  • Delta

                  #9
                  Originally posted by jabe
                  Another way to cut plexiglass or plastic is to use a straight edge and score it and snap it. Much like cutting glass. Most hardware stores sell plastic scoring tool or you can use a scratch awl. I usually score it on both sides a couple of times then place the scored line on the edge of my work bench hold it down firmly or clamp it (use a caul) right on the scored line. Then a quick push down on the overhanging plastic and it should break cleanly on the scored line. After sanding the edge a little, pass a flame from a propane torch over the edge quickly (this takes practice), and it'll melt the edge and give it a polished look. Practice with thin plastic first, this technique can be used up to 1/4" thick plastic, any thicker is a gamble. I learned this during the 60's when I was a sheetmetal worker in the shipyard.
                  Scoring and snapping can work on thickness up to 3/16" fairly easy. For 1/4" it's not that predictable. What adds to the procedure, and cutting for that matter, is whether the sheet goods are extruded or cast. They can appear the same, but cut/machine and fabricate differently.

                  Using a torch will deform the faces near the edge you're trying to polish. If the piece needs to be perfect, instead of flaming, the edge needs to be sanded to a fine grit, and buffed with a polishing compound. Flaming can give a polished appearance, but the heat will get to the sides. It can cause a slight melted build up, taking away the sharp corners and flatness of the edge. There's no comparison of a flamed edge to a buffed/polished edge.

                  .

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                  • leehljp
                    Just me
                    • Dec 2002
                    • 8429
                    • Tunica, MS
                    • BT3000/3100

                    #10
                    Originally posted by cabinetman
                    = Flaming can give a polished appearance, but the heat will get to the sides. It can cause a slight melted build up, taking away the sharp corners and flatness of the edge. There's no comparison of a flamed edge to a buffed/polished edge.

                    .
                    I recently watched a YT video (either here or at the PenTurning site) of a fellow that made duck calls of blocks of acyric / plexi. He used the flame process after turning it to an already beautiful luster. He flamed the inside, outside and ends. It is a well done video.

                    www.callmakersnews.comhow to flame polish an acrylic duck call barrelduck callduck call flame polishflame polishthe little torchthe little torch by smithflam...
                    Hank Lee

                    Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

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                    • pelligrini
                      Veteran Member
                      • Apr 2007
                      • 4217
                      • Fort Worth, TX
                      • Craftsman 21829

                      #11
                      I'll use the score and snap method on thin material, up to 3/16. If it's to be welded I'll use a saw. Snaping doesn't seem to give a good flat edge. It's also heard snaping off a small piece, the leverage just isn't there. I was working with some 1/4" and 1/2" material yesterday.
                      Erik

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