Flip Top Stand - DW735 planer

[poolhound]

Nice job. I made a similar one a few months back it made my life a lot easier and as you say its much easier to flip than you first think even with a 90lb planer on it.

Sarge - Mine has fully locking casters and its really stable when locked into position. the weight of the cabinet and planer combined make it very solid.

[Jes Pidlin]

Thanks for the post. I've been looking for a place to store my planer AND oscilating spindle sander, I think I've found it; bolt the OSS to the other side.

[Jay Yoder]

Sweet stand! And thanks for the dwgs too!!

[pelligrini]

Thanks for the compliments.

Anyone going straight by the drawings might want to check them very closely, especially the cutting diagrams. There were a couple of small modifications I did during construction. I think I modified the drawings correctly, maybe not the diagrams though. I added a rabbit on the base ply to receive the sides and back. That also made the glue up easier. The drawings are also nominal thicknesses, be sure to take into account the actual plywood thickness.

I think the best way to execute it is to make the top then build the rest around it.

When you go to bore the hole for the rod, make sure you grab the right bit too. I mistakenly chucked a 5/8” forstner when it should have been a 1/2". Yep, I was pretty happy when I went to check the fit of the top rail on the rod.

[Nil]

Looks great! Though I've got to say, I'm even more interested in your use of BT3x00 rails for a workbench / router table... Did you use T-nuts to connect the rails to the top? And did you attach the workbench legs to the top or to the rails? Does the table have a BT3x00 rail on the back too? Do you have the depth (from front to back) of the top such that you can use a BT3x00 fence?

I've shied away from making a router table for a long time because I wanted to be able to have a fence that would be parallel to the table without careful measurement (and clamps) every time I adjusted the fence. I've got an extra pair of rails from an old BT3000 that may have a purpose now...

Thanks!

[poolhound]

I've shied away from making a router table for a long time because I wanted to be able to have a fence that would be parallel to the table without careful measurement (and clamps) every time I adjusted the fence.

I am not sure if there is another reason that you want a router fence parallel to the table but for nearly all operations I can think of this isnt necessary. As long as the distance or relationship between the bit and the fence is set correctly for what you want to do the angular relationship to the table is irrelevant.

For many basic tasks a solid piece of 3/4" MDF (sealed & coated) properly supported with the router mounted underneath along with a straight piece of HW for a fence is all you need. Once you get a feel for the types of routing jobs you want to do you can build up from here and make a table as elaborate as you wish. Even then a fence parallel to the table isnt needed.

[LarryG]

I am not sure if there is another reason that you want a router fence parallel to the table but for nearly all operations I can think of this isnt necessary. As long as the distance or relationship between the bit and the fence is set correctly for what you want to do the angular relationship to the table is irrelevant.

The only operation I can think of would involve something like an end-grain-cutting sled that indexes against the edge of the table -- in which case you'd use the sled itself as a "gauge" to set the two ends of the fence.

Otherwise, Jon is correct: since a router bit spins in a horizontal plane, it has no "parallel" relationship to the table whatsoever. The table edges don't even have to be straight or square to each other.

[pelligrini]

Looks great! Though I've got to say, I'm even more interested in your use of BT3x00 rails for a workbench / router table... Did you use T-nuts to connect the rails to the top? And did you attach the workbench legs to the top or to the rails? Does the table have a BT3x00 rail on the back too? Do you have the depth (from front to back) of the top such that you can use a BT3x00 fence?

Most all of the hardware used is part of the BT-Wide Table Leg Kit. I used two leg kits. The only thing extra is the wood stretchers on the bottom of the legs. The legs attach to the bottom of the rails with T-nuts. The 3/4" MDF top fastend to the inside face of the rails with L brackets. The brackets screw to the underside of the top. I cut the MDF the same depth as my table depth.

I can use my saw fence on it. When I put the brackets on the top I left myself some room at the ends to be able to slide the top over and put an accessory table on the rails.

The bench was really used as an extension table for my 21829. I only had one leg kit at first, then I ran across a really good deal on a second. That's when I turned it into a light duty bench, and so I didn't have to tear it down all the time. I don't use it as an extension that often anymore since I put a set of half rails on my saw. Every once in a while I'll need to bolt in on though.

The guys are correct on the fence being square to the table. It's not totally necassary, but nice when using a sled like larry pointed out. If I do make it into a router table I would really be doing it so I could have a bigger top and fence. My new fence would run parallel to the rails, but I would have the option of using my existing fence that attaches to a BT fence too.

[Belg]

Pelligrini, could I ask if you attached the rod to the tabletop in any way or does the top just turn around the rod? Been thinking and planning one of these for way too long and need to pull the trigger and just BUILD ONE. Thanks Pat

[emnesto]

Plans Up to Date?

I just downloaded your PDF file with plans and cut list, and just wanted to see if it is up to date. Please let me know if any changes or improvements.

The DW735X now comes with infeed and outfeed tables. I believe they fold up, but right now I'm not sure how high the total height will be. I may need to modify some verticle dimensions to accomodate.

I intend on mounting the DW735 on one side, and a router table on the other.

This is a great project. Thanks for your help.

[All Thumbs]

I intend on mounting the DW735 on one side, and a router table on the other.

But a router table really requires use of both sides. The router hangs down below the table, the fence and your stock are on top of the table. So unless you have a third side, there is no place for the planer?

[Carpenter96]

Planer

Great job I have been thinking of something like this. I have seen a Craftsman rotating table that will let you mount 3 machines. Regards Bob

[atgcpaul]

Thanks for resurrecting this post. This is on my shop to-do list this year.

[pelligrini]

I just downloaded your PDF file with plans and cut list, and just wanted to see if it is up to date. Please let me know if any changes or improvements.

The DW735X now comes with infeed and outfeed tables. I believe they fold up, but right now I'm not sure how high the total height will be. I may need to modify some verticle dimensions to accomodate.

I intend on mounting the DW735 on one side, and a router table on the other.

This is a great project. Thanks for your help.

There might be some minor discrepancies between the plans and actual execution. I know I did a couple things different than my original drawings, but I think I updated my files before I put them up. It's been at least 4 1/2 years since I did it. Guinness and sleep has fogged it up a bit.
(*edit Yep- Check post 19 for a disclaimer)

And to answer Belg's question (sorry I missed it earlier). The rod isn't attached at all, although my clearances were really tight. I waxed the holes in the uprights before I finished the assembly.

I have to remove the rear outfeed table for each use, as it doesn't fold up close like the front table. The cord storage gets in the way. That would be the only complaint I have about the DW735, and the fact that the tables aren't included.

A router table might be a tight fit, depending on the depth of your router. The surface area might be limited due to the clearances needed when pivoting. I use the top side of mine for an extra assembly table, and I put some benchtop tools on it like my POS 9" bandsaw or my Dremel scrollsaw.

It's still working great, residing under my bench. I only wish it was lower, so I could use traditional holdfasts, but I wouldn't want the planer much lower though. It's about the right height without stooping to feed wood in or out. If I need to use some longer holdfasts I'll wheel the planer cart out. My LV hold down with a short post doesn't have clearance problems, I just need to pick up another.

The two 1/4" hitch pins have worked out really well. No problems at all. I keep the rear outfeed underneath in the lower drawer opening. My dogs, stops, and hold downs lay on the top portion of the lower area within reach of my workbench.

Maybe I'll get that drawer built for the bottom this year...

[atgcpaul]

Is the 1/2" steel bar captured between the sides or is there a way to remove the bar (and top) without disassembling the sides?