Craftsman Radial arm saw.

**atgcpaul** · 10-18-2016, 11:10 AM

If you don't want to keep it, you could be eligible to receive $100 for returning it to Emerson per the recall:

http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/

**woodturner** · 10-18-2016, 06:14 PM

Originally posted by Syncman

Scored this from the crawl space of a foreclosed house. The first time it wouldn't start at all, and I had to spin the blade then start the motor. now the motor runs smooth, but start up is kinda slow and "jumpy". The tool seems to have corrosion on it, and the table [particle board] totally rotted away. Am I wasting my time? Any advice on saving it? Never owned a radial arm saw before.

Take the recall money and buy something else. The arm bearing surface is two metal dowels that are not machined. These saws "wiggle" as they move along the carriage, resulting in burning and a poor cut. There are ways to improve them, but they really can't be fixed. The DeWalt GW radial arm saws are often available for <$100 used (often free) and are a much better option.

**cwsmith** · 10-19-2016, 10:46 AM

A lot will depend on how much of this may be worn or corroded. I have a 1973 Craftsman RAS. A bit different from yours and mine is an earlier model with a cast iron column as opposed to the fabricated column.

Personally, I love my RAS and bought it new way back then. It's been my primary 'big' tool, as I bought my first table saw (a BT31001) only in 2005. While the table saw is the best for ripping, the RAS is terrific at crosscutting and, as such, is the main tool in my little shop. The RAS does take up a bit of room though and unlike my BT, it is not in any way mobile.

So, I guess my question would be how much effort do you want to put into restoring it and also how much do you want/need a dedicated crosscut saw. (Although I've ripped a lot of wood over the years, the table saw is much more efficient and safer for ripping.)

(As a crosscut tool, you simply can't beat an RAS in my opinion. While many are of the opinion that a sliding CMS will do the same, the fact is simply that without depth of cut provision, it won't match a good RAS for versatility or accuracy. With my RAS fence setup, I can consistently cut lengths precisely without constant measuring and marking. I don't have a SCMS, but I see no provision for cutting rabbets or decorative cuts.)

However, if you don't need it as a dedicated crosscut machine, it may not be worth your while. There's a bit of work to a proper setup and alignment and if parts are worn, the RAS may not hold it's alignment. So many owners of the RAS never really understood the operation or importance of maintenance and the horror stories and arguments I've heard about the usage and operation of the RAS could fill a book. Much of the historical problem (IMO) is due to some of the absolutely crazy accessories that were designed for the RAS back in the 50's and 60's, when the RAS was heralded almost like it was a ShopSmith. Personally, I wouldn't go anywhere near most of these accessories... most were simply scary!

I can't leave this without pointing out that on crosscut operations, the saw is "self-feeding"... that is to say that if you treat it light-handedly, a pull cut into the stock the blade will tear into the stock with the blade wheeling the carriage rapidly toward you and thus "climb" onto the stock and thus jamb. It's scary when that happens and if you have your fingers onto the stock, you could well regret it forever. A blade with a negative hook angle (designed specifically for RAS and CMS saws) may well be worth the investment to relieve this problem. I rarely cut stock thicker than 4/4, and properly pulling the cut, is well managed with conventional table saw blades that are available locally. 2" stock will definitely make such cuts a bit uncomfortable without a negative hook (-5 degree hook angle), so be warned.

Additional: When properly used, the carriage is positioned behind the fence with the motor off. One places the stock back against the fence, and the motor is toggled on, with the operator firmly grasping the handle. Once the motor is up to speed, the carriage is pulled forward into the stock where the operator controls the advance slowly through the cut. With the cut finished, the saw is pushed back behind the fence and the motor toggle off. Only when the blade fully stops, does the operator release the carriage and remove the stock. Used in this manner, the power of the blades rotation will hold the stock firmly down on the table and back against the fence. Without such operator control, the blade will want to traction itself rapidly outward as it chews into the stock and as such will most likely jamb.

Final note: I've been aware of the recall for over a decade now. Primarily it was issued because many of these earlier saws were not equipped with a lower blade guard. For some Craftsman models a lower guard could be fitted and Sears would supply a guard for those particular models at no cost to the owners. For other models, like mine, a guard was not available and you could send back the motor carriage and receive your reward. My saw is far more valuable for me and thus I am still using it with great joy... and always safe practice (something I do with every single tool I use).

I hope this helps,

CWS

**LCHIEN** · 10-19-2016, 11:44 AM

Take the refund if you can get it. www.radialarmsawrecall.com

**woodturner** · 10-20-2016, 05:40 AM

Originally posted by cwsmith

I have a 1973 Craftsman RAS. A bit different from yours and mine is an earlier model with a cast iron column as opposed to the fabricated column.

A lot different - it was when they moved to the fabricated columns that they changed the carriage rail. Earlier Craftsman RAS are fine, and later ones may be, but those 1980's RASs with the post metal unmachined guide rail and fabricated column are essentially useless.

**tfischer** · 10-20-2016, 01:01 PM

I rather like my fingers, so I'd be inclined to take the $100 and put it toward a decent 12" SCMS. The SCMS is much safer and more accurate.

**twistsol** · 10-22-2016, 07:07 AM

Originally posted by tfischer

I ...The SCMS is much safer and more accurate.

That kind of talk is how you start a holy war.

**capncarl** · 10-22-2016, 02:42 PM

I've worked with a lot of potentially dangerous tools/equipment and never been scared by any tool as bad as a radial arm saw has scared me. I was helping a friend who was using his fathers old cheap radial arm saw crosscut a large board when the blade bound up and ran across the wood to the full extent of the saw. My friend had been squatting down sighting down the blade when the "attack" happened, the saw motor hit him in the face. Tool quality and operator error aside, I decided right there never to own or use another one.

**leehljp** · 10-22-2016, 04:38 PM

My first table tool was a cast iron column Sears RAS. It was the only table tool I had for a long time. I learned to rip with it, cross cut, miter, bevel and dado. Yep, I was scared of it like Carl mentioned. Almost every time, I pictured in my mind what could happen if I didn't do everything right. Each setting, locking and each grip was calculated, every time. NEVER took it for granted. I was scared of what each cut COULD do, if I took it for granted. But WOW, did I learn some things and accomplished some things on that saw.

The old adage "Familiarity breeds contempt" applied to that and taught me to view all electrical bladed tools in the same light. Watching even experienced people around tools taught me that "Tool Familiarity" leads to false trust in ones own judgement and response. I learned quickly to expect the unknown. Some people might say too much fear is as unhealthy as too much disrespect for the saw. It didn't work that way with me. A SawStop is not going to make me feel safer. I still will view each cut with total respect. And that was my way with the RAS.

The motor finally died just before I went off to Japan. I have an old DeWalt RAS 10" but do not use it; it's in storage. If I had more space, I would have it out for occasional use. My experience with the Sears RAS and this DeWalt is that they are not accurate in the settings. As a result, each setting has to be checked and locked in with registration squares and angle jigs. But that was never a problem for me.

**cwsmith** · 10-22-2016, 07:40 PM

Hank,

Thanks, I couldn't have said it better myself. Your comments echo my experience almost to the letter with the biggest difference being I never went to Japan and my RAS motor is still running strong.

So many stories from the experience of people with the RAS and I do understand the concerns. But, in the 50-plus years I've had my RAS, I've never experience anything more than a "bind" three or four times. I never leave the motor running without my hand firmly gripping the carriage handle and my thumb ready at the switch. Years ago when I used to use the RAS for ripping, I didn't like the idea that I might bind the blade and, as you know, I handling a long piece of stock on a rip puts you well away from the power switch (same is true with a table saw in most cases). For that, I rigged a remote switch on a short extension table. For ripping sheet goods I used an 'out-rigger" rail and my son's old skate board to help support the feed. (one man operation of a sheet rip on the RAS is almost insane without rigging something to support.

Funny thing of it is with me is that I do have serious concerns with almost every power tool that I used. (But, although I've never been nicked by a power tool, I can't say as much with a knife blade.) When I was 14, I was helping my Dad on one of his night projects, he (with me helping a bit) used to do a lot of second job stuff to help the family). One night I guess he was just too tired and was using one of those shaper blade things on a table saw. Something went terribly wrong and he lost two fingers and serious slice open a third. I can still clearly remember it and that sound was horrifying. He drove the mile or so home and then my mother took him to the hospital. I cleaned the car the next day.

I took metal shop for a couple of years, afraid of even going into the woodshop, but in my junior year I found myself there and my teacher quickly noted that I was staying well away from the table saw. So, he introduced me too what he termed, "a safe saw". Of course it wasn't by any means "safe", and he often warned that ANY too with a sharp blade is potentially dangerous. But, with that big 12" DeWalt, you could clearly see the blade, see, and feel, what it was doing and it was up to YOU to control cut. So there I was at 16, using that RAS for all the cross-cut operations for our class "desk" project (cutting drawer and leg pieces to length. So years later the RAS was the first large tool for my interest. I didn't get a table saw until 2005.

While my RAS will certainly advance, if you're not careful; I've never witnessed it as Carl has described. The thing will start to 'climb', but will bind if the stock is thick, at least on my RAS. However, if it does come forward like that you'll definitely get hit as the carriage handle and riving knife will advance slightly past the edge of the table... serious problem if you have your fingers in the path, or your face down at that level. (But in the world would anyone operate any saw in that position? (Never mind the answer, we've all heard some pretty frightening stories with most any power tool!)

CWS

**woodturner** · 10-23-2016, 07:09 AM

Quick reminder - an RAS is much safer with a negative-hook or negative-rake blade, it solve the self-feeding problem. Doesn't seem like the RAS blades are as available as they used to be, but they are still available. A lot of people just put a table saw blade on the RAS - and that will self-feed and contribute to accidents.

**LCHIEN** · 10-25-2016, 11:47 PM

Originally posted by woodturner

Quick reminder - an RAS is much safer with a negative-rake blade, it solve the self-feeding problem. Doesn't seem like the RAS blades are as available as they used to be, but they are still available. A lot of people just put a table saw blade on the RAS - and that will self-feed and contribute to accidents.

By negative rake blade do you mean negative hook? The term I've always seen is negative hook.
Negative hook blades are still widely sold for use on miter saws where you want the blade to push the work down and to the fence and not lift it up.

**mpc** · 10-30-2016, 02:40 PM

I was given a Sears radial arm saw a couple of years ago by an older friend. He included the blade and accessories he had for the saw as well. Most of those blades were the old style, pre-dating carbide tipped blades. I tried the Freud blades I use in my BT3 and they worked well but the self-feed was rather disconcerting. It takes a pull to get the cut started... then a push to control the cut rate. I had a negative hook Freud for my Ridgid CMS and put that on the RAS, what a difference! Still a little push needed but nowhere near the feeling that this thing wanted to run away. I'd liken the difference to a router doing a climb-cut: a very shallow climb-cut pass isn't difficult and takes just a little concentration... trying a slightly bigger climb cut takes full concentration to control... and a large climb cut is an "OH BOY!" experience. RAS use with standard hook table saw blades is in the "slightly bigger climb cut" range, a dado cut or cross-cutting a thick workpiece with a table saw blade on the RAS approaches "OH BOY!" levels. I will only use negative hook blades in the RAS and CMS now. I do like using the RAS though for crosscuts especially on longer boards that are difficult to keep square while feeding on my BT3 even when using the wider Incra crosscut fence that I own.

I wish I could find a decent & reasonably priced dado stack in negative hook for the RAS. I think it would be easier/faster to align the workpiece to the dado markings - and MUCH easier to make stopped dados - on a RAS compared to a table saw. But a stock dado stack - without negative hook - really wants to self-feed on a RAS and takes a lot of concentration unless you take multiple shallow passes and that makes it harder to get consistent final depths in the dado. I've done one-pass dados on the RAS and am ready for the push force needed to keep it under control. But I'd rather spend some money on a negative hook dado stack for RAS use if I could find a decent one. I use routers for dado cuts generally but I like the RAS/tablesaw for dados because I can get better dust collection and it's easier to hold the workpiece on those tools compared to clamping the workpiece & a guide in my small shop.

As to the OP's original question - is that saw worth restoring? I personally know nothing about that particular saw, Woodturner's reply though sums it up nicely. When evaluating any old tool... see how much slop/play there is in the moving stuff. If that slop can't be attributed to worn bearings then it'll likely cost a fair bit to bring the tool up to snuff. If the basic design of the tool is such that slop can't be eliminated - as Woodtuner's post says in the case for the OP's saw - then the tool should never have been sold in the first place and certainly isn't worth the time, effort, and cost to restore. A flaky motor is never safe either. The OP's motor may need only a new capacitor and/or a general clean-up of the centrifugal clutch mechanism assuming it even has those parts (i.e. it isn't a "universal" AC motor). The carriage may also have broken wires - making intermittent contact as the RAS carriage is moved - which means a little electrical re-wiring would be necessary.

mpc

Craftsman Radial arm saw.

Craftsman Radial arm saw.

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