Simple Router Dado Jig

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  • leehljp
    Just me
    • Dec 2002
    • 8429
    • Tunica, MS
    • BT3000/3100

    Simple Router Dado Jig

    This is something I have been needing for ages. A SIMPLE router version of a sawboard. Because most sawboard type of router dado jigs raise the router above the surface other precise measurements are needed. I have at least three versions that just do not work without having to "mentally visualize" and then make some measurement adjustments. I have never been completely satisfied with hand made or purchased router dado jigs.

    I saw a simple one on Pintrest and will be making one for my PC router, probably today, as I need to make the ladder for my daughter's bunk bed. I will probably be making 4 of these because it is so simple, one for 1/4 inch, one for 3/8 inch, one for 1/2 and one for 3/4, and mark each one as to what size bit it is for. Much better than having to add "another" measuring step with each dado cut, which easily lead to mistakes. (Extra measurements have a habit of doing that.)

    Dec 7, 2015 - Learn tips and tricks that make your shop time more productive. Find out how to get the most out of hand tools and power tools, including your router and table saw. See tips on finishing, gluing, clamping, sharpening, layout, and more!


    I usually mark the dado lines all the way across what ever I am cutting. With this board, simply align the right side of the board (in the linked pictures) with the line (make sure each jig is properly cut for the bit size), clamp and fold the spacing board back. Simple and depth is preset to the actual depth.

    Clarification: I think I have been overthinking this. Doing the center line with a single bit sized to fit the dado might be the way to go. However, I have always had a problem with the router "jumping" at some point as it hit irregular grain, or I shifted my hands/arm to follow the line. I like the idea of the original line being the "cut line".

    I need to play with this an tailor it to my work habits.
    Last edited by leehljp; 06-30-2016, 06:02 AM.
    Hank Lee

    Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!
  • Bill in Buena Park
    Veteran Member
    • Nov 2007
    • 1865
    • Buena Park, CA
    • CM 21829

    #2
    Hank - wouldn't you be able to accomplish your objective with a simple adjustable router dado jig, like this? http://www.woodsmithshop.com/media/p...bledadojig.pdf

    I made one like it several years ago, works great. In my mod, I eliminated the guide board on top, and you use a () template bearing guided bit with it; the jig adjusts to the exact widths of the boards you are using (you place the board in the jig, adjust the one side to snug up to the board and lock in place, then clamp the jig to your workpiece exactly where you want the dado.)
    Last edited by Bill in Buena Park; 06-25-2016, 12:55 PM. Reason: Change flush-trim to template for bit
    Bill in Buena Park

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    • Bill in Buena Park
      Veteran Member
      • Nov 2007
      • 1865
      • Buena Park, CA
      • CM 21829

      #3
      Hank, here's another adjustable one - this one is bushing guided, but again, you could remove the bushing and use a bearing-guided template bit.

      Attached Files
      Bill in Buena Park

      Comment

      • leehljp
        Just me
        • Dec 2002
        • 8429
        • Tunica, MS
        • BT3000/3100

        #4
        Originally posted by Bill in Buena Park
        Hank - wouldn't you be able to accomplish your objective with a simple adjustable router dado jig, like this? http://www.woodsmithshop.com/media/p...bledadojig.pdf
        I made one like the top about 3 or 4 years ago and still have it. I also remember It worked OK but it wasn't quite as simple as I needed. I spent more time making the jig than routing the boards. The bottom one is good and I have a good brass set of bushings somewhere but can't find them. When I get better organized (and I am working on it) maybe I can find my finer tools.

        That pintrest link is very simple. One board, 2 clamps, no raised router, no bushings, just one edge lined up, clamp, flip and set depth to actual depth wanted, route.
        Hank Lee

        Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

        Comment

        • cwsmith
          Veteran Member
          • Dec 2005
          • 2737
          • NY Southern Tier, USA.
          • BT3100-1

          #5
          Hank,

          Here's a router jig that I made a few years ago when I was in the midst of building our library. I'm not much for using magazine plans and I can't remember ever using any. I usually just think things through based on what I think I need to do the job. Sometimes I even get it right . But this particular jig seemed to work well for me.

          The two slotted parallel strips are fixed distance at the diameter of my router base and anchored by the cross piece on the left (in the first photo). The right cross piece is adjustable to the width of the board you wish to dado (I used mine with shelves in mind) and it acts as a clamp to hold the jig to the work piece. Additional clamps can be used, but I haven't found it necessary in most cases.

          On both left and right cross pieces, there are adjustable stops... this allows me to completely cross-dado a board, or to limit the router travel at either end of the cut.

          There's no concern about adjusting the depth of cut taking into account the thickness of a jig base, as this design allows the router base to sit right on the work piece.

          Edit: I just took a minute to snap these pictures yesterday. I haven't used this jig in almost two years and today I'm looking at the pictures and realized that I left out an important element... I place small sacrificial spacers on either side of the board that I am about to dado. The spacers are usually about two inches wide (scrap) allowing the cutter to exit either side of the stock without cutting into the jig. I suppose that I could just as easily cut notches in the jig itself to allow such exit.
          Last edited by cwsmith; 06-27-2016, 10:22 AM. Reason: Correction with additional explanation; marked as "Edit"
          Think it Through Before You Do!

          Comment

          • JimD
            Veteran Member
            • Feb 2003
            • 4187
            • Lexington, SC.

            #6
            Most recently I used the router base for my track saw track (DeWalt). I wanted a 3/4 dado, shallow, and had a 3/4 bit so it worked nicely. I also made a jig that works with a top bearing straight bit. You just clamp a board of the thickness you want between the sides, tighten the moveable side, and route. It works but I think I like the track guided router better. It might be usable with other brands track, it just glides along the same rail that the saw tracks. There are a variety of rods to attach to the router. And the base has a micro adjust on the router position.

            Comment

            • leehljp
              Just me
              • Dec 2002
              • 8429
              • Tunica, MS
              • BT3000/3100

              #7
              Originally posted by cwsmith
              Hank,

              Here's a router jig that I made a few years ago when I was in the midst of building our library. I'm not much for using magazine plans and I can't remember ever using any. I usually just think things through based on what I think I need to do the job. Sometimes I even get it right . But this particular jig seemed to work well for me.

              Edit: I just took a minute to snap these pictures yesterday. I haven't used this jig in almost two years and today I'm looking at the pictures and realized that I left out an important element... I place small sacrificial spacers on either side of the board that I am about to dado. The spacers are usually about two inches wide (scrap) allowing the cutter to exit either side of the stock without cutting into the jig. I suppose that I could just as easily cut notches in the jig itself to allow such exit.
              NICE looking jig. Like it. I built one like Bill mentioned above and I messed up once. I was able to hide that mistake.

              What I like about the original Pintrest OP link is that it is the most simple jig I have ever seen for router dadoing. What you see is what you get, no extra measuring anywhere or allowance for spacers or what ever. What you see is what you get. It's one weakness is if you want a stopped dado, but that can be accomplished easily enough.

              1. Set the router bit depth to the actual depth you want, no need for spacer depth measurements to be tacked on.
              2. Place the board and clamp it so that edge is to the cut line; flip the spacer board over and it cuts. No secondary measurements or spacers of any kind to have to think about or allow for.
              3. And much easier to build.
              Simple all the way through. The simplicity of a sawboard or track saw.
              Hank Lee

              Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

              Comment

              • cwsmith
                Veteran Member
                • Dec 2005
                • 2737
                • NY Southern Tier, USA.
                • BT3100-1

                #8
                No doubt that my jig is a bit more complicated to build. But I had the jig hardware already (Lee-Valley Jig Hardware Kit) and though I did have a bushing kit, I thought it would be easier to just make the parallel pieces to fit the width of my router base. The thing I think needs improvement is on the stops. Basically, I just need to run the router into both ends to create a notch which would allow me to dado through the work piece without adding those extra spacers that I mentioned in my previous post.

                With that simple fix, all I'd have to do is position the jig on the work piece, tighten the adjustable end to clamp the board, and then adjust the stop if I only want to dado the board partially. The parallels keep my router from moving anyplace other than in a straight line. No clamps required!, When the first dado is done, I simple loosen it and slide it down to the next mark and repeat the process. This jig will accommodate up to about an 18 inch width.

                Thanks for your comments, they were appreciated,

                CWS
                Think it Through Before You Do!

                Comment

                • leehljp
                  Just me
                  • Dec 2002
                  • 8429
                  • Tunica, MS
                  • BT3000/3100

                  #9
                  Originally posted by cwsmith
                  , When the first dado is done, I simple loosen it and slide it down to the next mark and repeat the process. This jig will accommodate up to about an 18 inch width.
                  CWS
                  What I didn't understand about the one you posted - is what method do you use to, or how do you line the router bit edge up precisely with the cut line? This is the what I am not "seeing". If I bump the bit up to the cut line at the edge of the board, I still can't see precisely where the bit cut line will be. If I set the router on top of the board and cut line, then set the jig at that point - That might be the best way to figure where the cut line is going to be. Is that what you do?

                  The bushing type - I did that once or twice and I have a good expensive set; I just don't like using bushings as it is too many steps for a once a year set up. If I did this often, such as weekly, I probably would use it.

                  Thanks
                  Hank Lee

                  Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

                  Comment

                  • cwsmith
                    Veteran Member
                    • Dec 2005
                    • 2737
                    • NY Southern Tier, USA.
                    • BT3100-1

                    #10
                    The jig is 9-1/4 inches wide with a 6" path (the width of the router base) between the two parallels. Originally I had put tape on both ends to mark the center line... as this was just the first prototype. (I figured I'd probably have to make some serious alterations later.)

                    So, where I want to rout the dado, I draw a center-line, using my square, at all the points where I need fixed shelves. Then with or without the stops locked down, I move the jig to line up with the center line, tighten the adjustable end (so it's clamping on the board) and then run the router down the center. (Because the router's base is directly on the work piece I don't have to make any allowances for the jig or a guide bushing. Once done, I loosen the adjustable end, and slide it down to align the center with the next center line.

                    The router base plastic seems to be slippery enough to not bind on the wood parallels and I did originally wax those.

                    So, not exactly like screwing a couple of pieces of rectangular stock together, but its not complicated either. About the only complexity, if you can call it that, was routing the slots in the parallel pieces. I think I took pictures of the pieces before I assembled them... I'll have to look back in my shop photo library if you wish. Not sure if I made drawings, but that would be easy enough to do also.

                    I hope this helps,

                    CWS

                    Think it Through Before You Do!

                    Comment

                    • LinuxRandal
                      Veteran Member
                      • Feb 2005
                      • 4889
                      • Independence, MO, USA.
                      • bt3100

                      #11
                      Do you have to have a Pinterest account for that link to work? That link, takes me to a page with a lot of jigs and an annoying, sign in/up bar, that any scrolling, causes it to take over.
                      She couldn't tell the difference between the escape pod, and the bathroom. We had to go back for her.........................Twice.

                      Comment

                      • leehljp
                        Just me
                        • Dec 2002
                        • 8429
                        • Tunica, MS
                        • BT3000/3100

                        #12
                        Originally posted by LinuxRandal
                        Do you have to have a Pinterest account for that link to work? That link, takes me to a page with a lot of jigs and an annoying, sign in/up bar, that any scrolling, causes it to take over.
                        I signed up a long time ago but never used it until my daughter started talking "beds". Although I don't remember signing it, it must have signed me in automatically and it has been well over a year until I started looking at the beds and then two weeks ago the router guide.

                        I just looked and noticed something: It is from Wood Magazine
                        Here is the link from Wood Mag:
                        http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood-rou...-center-dadoes

                        Dadgum it. That only shows the final picture which doesn't show how it works. I will make one in the next couple of days and post it.
                        (Caveat: My youngest daughter is expecting any moment. If I get a call, I headed to Dallas.)
                        Last edited by leehljp; 07-02-2016, 03:07 PM.
                        Hank Lee

                        Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

                        Comment

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