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Shark Guard 10.4 / SGK1 comparison photos.

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  • Shark Guard 10.4 / SGK1 comparison photos.

    For those of you in the know, you know Lee's Shark Guards are probably the best guards on the market, certainly they are unbeatable for the BT3x00 saws. Well with the new SGK1 being out, I snagged one, and it came in last night. While I haven't had a chance to use it yet, I have installed it. So the before and after pics... Please forgive the dust on the saw and in the 10.4, that is NOT the fault of the SG, it is the fault of the operator forgetting to open blast gates...

    The 10.4 as installed on my BT3100


    The SGK1 with 4" port as installed on my BT3100


    The 104. riving knife (sorry about the lousy photo, I only took one and it came out blurry...)


    The SGK1 riving knife. Very similar in design, but uses slots instead of holes to mount the clamp. This is certainly more convenient, but I have some concerns about durability with this arrangement. The tabs are just really thin... Time will tell. I suspect my concerns are probably unfounded unless the knife gets abused.


    The guards side by side. You can see how much narrower the SGK1 is compared to the 10.4.


    Other notable features that I did not capture photographically is that the top piece with the dust port, appears to be removable and replaceable. This could mean the ability to buy new top pieces with different port sizes, or no port at all from Lee, giving you even greater flexibility for your dust collection, so for example if you have a 4" port upper like mine, and decide at some point that the 4" duct is too big, and you want to change to 2.5, you should be able to just get the 2.5" top piece and swap it around...

    I have to take my blade off tonight and clean it (dummy me, forgot the blast gate remember?) as I was doing a LOT of cutting on PT pine. Thank GOD I was using a respirator and the overhead air filter at the time!

    There is so much to say for the 10.4 being just about the best blade guard out there on the market, and with the updates that are done here, it is purely an example of how the best just got better.
    Last edited by dbhost; 07-27-2011, 01:37 PM.
    My personal workshop blog is http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com. My camping / hunting / outdoor blog is http://wildersport-outdoors.blogspot.com/ |My DIY / Woodworking Youtube Channel

  • #2
    never mind, I got the names backwards.
    Last edited by LCHIEN; 07-26-2011, 03:24 PM.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - http://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/dis...sked-questions

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    • #3
      Lee's new model is the Shark Guard K1, or SGK1, the model it replaces was the 10 series, when fitted with the 4" port it is called the 10.4, therefore, no, my caption was right,

      The guards side by side. You can see how much narrower the SGK1 is compared to the 10.4.

      The SGK1 is on the left, the 10.4 is on the right...
      My personal workshop blog is http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com. My camping / hunting / outdoor blog is http://wildersport-outdoors.blogspot.com/ |My DIY / Woodworking Youtube Channel

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      • #4
        Originally posted by dbhost View Post
        Other notable features that I did not capture photographically is that the top piece with the dust port, appears to be removable and replaceable. This could mean the ability to buy new top pieces with different port sizes, or no port at all from Lee, giving you even greater flexibility for your dust collection, so for example if you have a 4" port upper like mine, and decide at some point that the 4" duct is too big, and you want to change to 2.5, you should be able to just get the 2.5" top piece and swap it around...
        It's not a possibility, it is a reality. I got all three port sizes with mine.
        Erik

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        • #5
          Right.
          This was the main focus of the new model or SGK1. K stands for kit form. It can be unassembled or vice versa without any adhesives. Just mechanical fasteners and the parts are secured into dado's.
          The only part welded is the dust port to the top part. It will be able to be ordered in different sizes during or after the initial sale. Think upgrade or down grade port size.
          Also that front part can easily be replaced if it gets foggy, scratched or full of resin.

          I can ease your concerns some on the slots, David.
          I did quite a bit of testing of this method. As long as the two knobs are snug to the clamp, nothing can really go anywhere. All the force of a kickback or the guard catching an errant chunk off the blade are directed either a bit upward or forward. When that force hits the front of the guard, it transfers that energy to the rear stud where it is now reinforced with steel. From that stud, it transfers to the three steel pins. From those to the FRONT of the slots in the knife. Each one of those steel pins has a shear strength of 1150 pounds. The friction of the clamp being tightened against the knife also helps.

          I think the slots are every bit as strong as the holes. Just more room for user error if they do not properly snug them down. Even then the design is pretty self supporting. The clamp would still need to be pushed back and lifted to be removed.

          I bought the cast iron Porter Cable saw for my new shop.
          That fancy new guard on it is incredibly difficult to install properly. That is a shame.
          Lee

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          • #6
            Wo! :O Dave, look at all the pitch on that blade :P just kidding, the guard looks great and dirty blades are the sign of a busy woodworker. Clean blades only belong in the store and at Rod's shop
            I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

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            • #7
              I hope nobody took my impression about the slots as a problem with the new SG. Far be it. My comment was to only point out that I thought the possibility existed to damage the knife / slots. To do this would require rather abusive treatment of the knife, along the lines of whacking it with a hammer in just the right spot... The material is the full width of the knife, so no problem there...

              As far as the pitch is concerned. I REALLY need to clean my blade. But I already mentioned that.
              My personal workshop blog is http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com. My camping / hunting / outdoor blog is http://wildersport-outdoors.blogspot.com/ |My DIY / Woodworking Youtube Channel

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              • #8
                I wasn't too sure about the slots when I saw them at first. I'd trust Lee's writeup. I do like the new clamp design. Not having to loosen the knobs as far will be welcome. I always had one knob that wasn't backed out far enough.

                And I thought I had too much pitch on my blade..
                Maybe the red paint makes it look worse then it is.
                Last edited by pelligrini; 07-27-2011, 11:57 AM.
                Erik

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by pelligrini View Post
                  I wasn't too sure about the slots when I saw them at first. I'd trust Lee's writeup. I do like the new clamp design. Not having to loosen the knobs as far will be welcome. I always had one knob that wasn't backed out far enough.

                  And I thought I had too much pitch on my blade..
                  Maybe the red paint makes it look worse then it is.
                  Okay I won't be able to do it tonight. would you guys be happy if I clean my blade after work tomorrow?
                  My personal workshop blog is http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com. My camping / hunting / outdoor blog is http://wildersport-outdoors.blogspot.com/ |My DIY / Woodworking Youtube Channel

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                  • #10
                    Hehe, you could even wait until before you start cutting again... but I'll sleep better tomorrow night knowing that it is clean.

                    When you remember to open your blastgate, do you open it all the way? Did you notice a big difference with your 10.4 and your smaller port?

                    Even with my smallish DC (a Jet 650) I'll have to close the blastgate down some if I'm ending up with small cutoffs.
                    Last edited by pelligrini; 07-27-2011, 12:14 PM.
                    Erik

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by pelligrini View Post
                      Hehe, you could even wait until before you start cutting again... but I'll sleep better tomorrow night knowing that it is clean.

                      When you remember to open your blastgate, do you open it all the way? Did you notice a big difference with your 10.4 and your smaller port?

                      Even with my smallish DC (a Jet 650) I'll have to close the blastgate down some if I'm ending up with small cutoffs.
                      If you recall, I have a 4" upper and 4" lower line going back to a shared 5" to the DC... On the upper, if I am doing narrow cuts where small offcuts could get trapped, sucked up or bounced around, I typically open the blast gate actually about 1/3 of the way... Much more and this thing will try sucking the throat plate up...

                      Okay not literally, but yes, the 4" port, at least on the 10.4, WILL suck up stuff you don't necessarily want it to. Especially narrow cut offs. I had a LOT of those when doing my shop cabinets, and had the blast gate open for the first one, it bounced around and pretty much exploded when it got trapped between the guard and the blade... So yes, closing the gate down a little helps a LOT...
                      My personal workshop blog is http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com. My camping / hunting / outdoor blog is http://wildersport-outdoors.blogspot.com/ |My DIY / Woodworking Youtube Channel

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