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Air Wrench / Impact Driver for Lawn Mower Blade Removal?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Perfidiajoe View Post
    Who cares about the ratchet, but I've grown attached to my hands. & I break them loose on earth movers
    Remind me never to meet you in a dark alley!!
    Ric

    Plan for the worst, hope for the best!

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    • #17
      Just noticed this 1/2 breaker bar on sale for $10.00 in the latest Harbor Freight brochure. Looks promising.

      http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=30395

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      • #18
        I have a Ryobi 18V Impact Driver and have done exactly what you are asking about. I have a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter and use a 3/8 drive socket. When I did this, the blade had not been removed in two years. Removal was smooth and sweet.

        I also used my 14.4 Porter Cable Drill driver in a similar circumstance 5 years ago and I still haven't forgot that. It swung so fast and hard that it sprained my wrist big time - from all the sudden torq. It broke loose the bolt but nearly broke my hand too. The 14.4 PC Drill Driver weighs a full 1/3 more than the 18V Ryobi ID and is of course physically larger. But the Ryobi has far more torq, and as Loring said at the beginning, it delivers the power in short quick powerful bursts. I have taken much more stubborn bolts and loosened them with Ryobi than I can with PC DD.

        For the reality of equalization: a 14.4 PC Drill Driver has more power than an 18V Ryobi Drill Driver;
        BUT Impact Drivers, by their nature, have more than twice the torq than same voltage Drill Drivers.
        The ID"s torq is applied to the bolt/screw.
        The DD's torq is applied back against the holder, making it much less effecient.
        The ID requires only about 1/3 the hand grip power as a DD for the same or better result than a DD.

        I love the ID!
        Last edited by leehljp; 01-24-2007, 05:02 AM.
        Hank Lee

        Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

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        • #19
          One small hint:

          PB Blaster is your friend!

          http://www.pbblaster.com/
          Dave - Weekend Garage Junkie
          "I'm no physicist but I know what matters" - Popeye

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          • #20
            I have both a cheap 3/8 air ratchet like you illustrate and a cheap 1/2 impact wrench like you illustrate. I use the 1/2 impact wrench. I don't think the 3/8 ratchet has enough grunt but I haven't tried it. I do not have a cordless impact tool (yet) or I would try that. My cheap 1/2 impact works fine. It is a lot easier than block the blade in position and pulling good and hard. My push mowers I would do either way but I also have a rider with a 29 inch blade and it is a bit more difficult to block and loosen. That's where the impact wrench it real handy. I put the front wheels up on a short wall to get access and then reach underneith with the impact wrench.

            I also like a right angle grinder for sharpening. Seems to go much quicker than a floor mounted grinder.

            Jim

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            • #21
              I use either the 3/8" HFT $20(sale)pro air impact or the Ryobi 18v if fully charged.
              I think the spec . on my commercial Toro , is 40-50'#'s/~500-700"#'s.
              I agree, cheaterbars on Ratchets regardless of warranty is not safe. I often use my 3/4" ratchet(CM) w. a 3/4"-1/2"socket adapter on my truck repairs.
              If you want a very good impact that will have hi torque, the Husky black composite 1/2" impact hybrid ~ $130 (FL pneumatic) is excellent(very similar to IR's gun); quiet, light, easily removes my F-350 lugs(175'#'s) that my CP 734 gun had trouble with. Lifetime warranty too, like Snap-On and about 80% less cost.
              BTW I have never had the blade spin removing the bolt w. an impact w. my mower. It has a release brake on the blade.
              Andrew

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              • #22
                The reason you block the blade is so you don't spin the blade into your hand. Do it to be safe no mater which way you remove the blade
                It's got to be us, because there are a lot more of them!

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Perfidiajoe View Post
                  The reason you block the blade is so you don't spin the blade into your hand. Do it to be safe no mater which way you remove the blade
                  Thanks for your concern but with my impact wrenches, mower blades do not move, either direction, IF you know how to use them. My mower's brake also helps. My hands are on the impact tool not anywhere near the blade.
                  I would block the blade if I had to use hand tools which is far more risky. The cheater bar is not a good idea here, and should only be used on fixed tools, not ratchets. My BMW MC, has a factory toolkit and you have to use a slip-over extension on the lug wrench to remove the rear wheel bolts.
                  If you do truck/auto repair you know how an impact wrench works and one use is to remove fasteners without the parts spinning, like shock mounting nuts on the shaft.
                  I hardly use my air ratchets, and would not use it for blade removal.
                  Andrew

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                  • #24
                    If I Know How To use them? Pal I have been in charge of all the hort. equipment for the N.Y.C. Parks Dept. for 27 years, & every manufacturer will tell you the same thing, "Block the Blade". Do You think they say that because they have too much space in the owners manual? You can do as you like! But don't tell someone who don't know to do something potentially unsafe.
                    It's got to be us, because there are a lot more of them!

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                    • #25
                      Joe, I do not know why you are taking this personal. This is a discussion and the "Pal" is not really friendly.

                      I am not telling anyone on how to do anything, I am explaining how I do it with my Toro. The OP seemed to not be familiar w. impact tools. I prefer not to use a hand method on MY Toro, b/c it has a autoblade brake that is engaged when the drive is released. It simply will not turn w,. an impact wrench if used properly. The block could be placed but it would do nothing to stop the blade b/c it does not move anyway when using the impact wrench.
                      This is not telling anyone on how they should do anything. I do not feel that a hand method is safe without the correct block b/c they can slip.
                      There are commercial products to hold the blade, but most would use an improvised method, that could be unsafe too.
                      I have been around cars,trucks, MC's over 30 years. I worked as a mechanic for my uncle for a time too. I do my own repairs, so I am experienced too. I try to be safe as well.
                      The safety issue is operated dependant. It is an endless argument. Never do anything that you feel is unsafe. I feel an extention on a ratchet could be usafe and I do no do that either.
                      Andrew

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                      • #26
                        I only replied that way when I read "If you know how to use them" With A capital If. When someone asks they don't know as much as, or need to know more. So I always try to be more safe with my details. I'm sorry for jumping on you, I believed it to be in defense. Joe
                        It's got to be us, because there are a lot more of them!

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                        • #27
                          Thank you for the reply, I guess I also need to be more careful.
                          Funny how that works, I did the "IF" for the OP and others sake since if unfamiliar with impact guns, I would not want anyone to get hurt with a blade involved. I had thoughts of someone adding a "cheaterbar" to a ratchet and the block comming loose or the ratchet paws breaking.
                          That was not directed at anyone, just a precaution for safety.
                          I think we were on the same idea actually. You would know best as far as this type of equipment goes being a pro at it.(I looked at your profile after I replied) I will try to be more careful in giving advice when safety issues are concerned.
                          Maybe you could explain the safest way(s) you use to remove a mower blade.
                          Andrew

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                          • #28
                            Forget the cheap 1/2" or 3/8" drive impact. Forget the air ratchet too. Air ratchet will only provide as much torque as you can pull with your arms. You want something that will take the bolt off with a minimum of fuss.

                            Here is what I recommend.

                            http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/IR-2135TI.html

                            BTW....don't confuse inch-pounds with foot-pounds.

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                            • #29
                              Gang - Thanks to everyone for the great advice.

                              I just picked up a 3/8 Breaker bar at my local HF store for $8.00. Between that, some penetrating liquid, and my Milwaulkee 1/4 impact driver, I should be all set to change the blade.

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