Yet another dust collection version

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  • atgcpaul
    Veteran Member
    • Aug 2003
    • 4055
    • Maryland
    • Grizzly 1023SLX

    #16
    Cool, I always wanted to add one of those sensors to my DC but never got around to it. I always felt that IR sensor should have been less expensive than it was. In operation will you have the sensor powered on only when the DC is running or is it a separate switch you have to flip? Is the Oneida can lid-to-barrel contact metal to metal or is there a gasket there? I was always disappointed with my DIY cyclone and I'm positive it was from air leaks around my DIY lid and trash can.

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    • Carlos
      Veteran Member
      • Jan 2004
      • 1893
      • Phoenix, AZ, USA.

      #17
      No switch, it will stay on at all times. The measured power usage is only about 2 watts when on green, and a few more watts on red. It will cost $1.50/year to run.

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      • Carlos
        Veteran Member
        • Jan 2004
        • 1893
        • Phoenix, AZ, USA.

        #18
        Oh, and yes, the Oneida drum has a gasket. You can test for leaks with anything that can make some smoke or steam. I test with a cigar, but a steamer should work too.

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        • capncarl
          Veteran Member
          • Jan 2007
          • 3564
          • Leesburg Georgia USA
          • SawStop CTS

          #19
          Atgcpaul, when I questioned the mfg about something on my dust collector their response was the drum was leaking. I didn’t know if it was or not so I put the drum in a large plastic bag and tightened it on the flex. I figured that if it was leaking it would suck the bag to the drum. It didn’t so I must not have a leak. This is an easy test. I’ve left the bag in place for a year now, it’s easy to remove and put back and reassures me I don’t have a leak. I still have dust and small bits circling in the clycone, but it must not matter because I haven’t had to clean the filter since I installed it 1year ago.
          The filled drum sensor / shutoff was one of the options I didn’t buy but wish I had. I’ve been meaning to but never ordered it. Maybe this will remind me, thanks.
          capncarl

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          • Carlos
            Veteran Member
            • Jan 2004
            • 1893
            • Phoenix, AZ, USA.

            #20
            Got the build done and installed, electrical run, and main pipe into the shop. So far the sound levels are great...


            Open

            86 dB @ 2’

            73 dB @ 15’




            Covered

            76 dB @ 2’

            68 dB @ 15’

            (This is the sound outside by the DC. Inside it's VERY quiet.)

            Comment

            • capncarl
              Veteran Member
              • Jan 2007
              • 3564
              • Leesburg Georgia USA
              • SawStop CTS

              #21
              What do you mean by open and covered?

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              • Carlos
                Veteran Member
                • Jan 2004
                • 1893
                • Phoenix, AZ, USA.

                #22
                The DC enclosure open, the enclosure covered.

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                • capncarl
                  Veteran Member
                  • Jan 2007
                  • 3564
                  • Leesburg Georgia USA
                  • SawStop CTS

                  #23
                  Carlos.... your dB readings made me wonder how much noise my collector was belching out, so I cranked up the iPad with the dB app.
                  note.... the 5hp Clearview dust collector is totally in the shop with an enclosure around It.
                  35.5 dB in shop with only the refrigerator and clock running. (The dB meter even registered the ticks from the clock!)
                  70.5 dB in shop with dust collector operating, 10 ft from dust collector enclosure,
                  67.4 dB in adjoining room at tablesaw.
                  53.0 dB outside of shop building at the dust collector corner
                  35.2 dB outside of shop building with dust collector offf.

                  Comment

                  • Carlos
                    Veteran Member
                    • Jan 2004
                    • 1893
                    • Phoenix, AZ, USA.

                    #24
                    I decided to do something different for the DC pipe installation. I previously used the typical generic straps. They aren't great, for so many reasons. I made up some 8" pieces of 2x2 with two deep holes for a combo screw/anchor and a hanger bolt in the middle. Drill the pipe, put the hanging assembly in there, lock washer and nut. Now it's easy for one person to install it. Shove the end into the previous piece which is solidly held in place with one of these mounts, and drive the wall screws in. The result is super solid, and I don't even need to screw together many of the pipe pieces. Now any gates will also be solid and usable with one hand.




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                    • Carlos
                      Veteran Member
                      • Jan 2004
                      • 1893
                      • Phoenix, AZ, USA.

                      #25



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                      • Carlos
                        Veteran Member
                        • Jan 2004
                        • 1893
                        • Phoenix, AZ, USA.

                        #26
                        Also "discovered" a much easier way to run hanger bolts into the wood. I used a threaded collar with a short bolt inserted into it, leaving just the right amount of the hanger sticking out. Run that into the wood until the collar seats, and then unscrew the collar. Perfect, easy drive every time, and no hassle with two wrenches and nuts locked against each other.

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                        • capncarl
                          Veteran Member
                          • Jan 2007
                          • 3564
                          • Leesburg Georgia USA
                          • SawStop CTS

                          #27
                          How are you working it out to hit a ceiling joist with the hangers?

                          Comment

                          • Carlos
                            Veteran Member
                            • Jan 2004
                            • 1893
                            • Phoenix, AZ, USA.

                            #28
                            The hanger bolt goes into the 2x2. That then is attached to the ceiling with drywall anchor-screws. No joists involved. The anchor screws work whether you hit a joist/stud or not.

                            Click image for larger version

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                            Last night some friends came over, and we got some planning and more work done before the drinking made us too lazy to work. **** friends bringing over free whisky.

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                            • poolhound
                              Veteran Member
                              • Mar 2006
                              • 3195
                              • Phoenix, AZ
                              • BT3100

                              #29
                              Done the same thing a while back. If you can go for the biggest drum you can. Its a question of capacity vs frequency of emptying vs ability to lift/move it (if you go bigger). I have one of these on mine.


                              Jon

                              Phoenix AZ - It's a dry heat
                              ________________________________

                              We all make mistakes and I should know I've made enough of them
                              techzibits.com

                              Comment

                              • Carlos
                                Veteran Member
                                • Jan 2004
                                • 1893
                                • Phoenix, AZ, USA.

                                #30
                                I have the Oneida 17 gallon. I found both at Timber, "used" but look unused, for $250 together. It's about $400 from Oneida for the pair.

                                Good progress over the weekend, close to done. Stupid pipe. Stupid fittings. Almost nothing is built to spec. I learned in the middle of things that the wye splits might be 40 degrees here, 50 degrees there... Made for some extra use of adjustable elbows to make things meet up, since I had started building from two ends thinking my math would line them up. Oh yeah, some of my used spiral tubing included what I think is Nordfab tube, in any case it was in between a normal pipe size and the normal elbow size, so nothing fit without copious adjustment. Good thing I have a metal bandsaw and plasma torch.

                                For a while I was unhappy with the run to the TS. It "floats" in the middle front of the garage, so the outdoors is my infeed space (I always work with the door open). I was going to have to eat up some floor space in the original plan for the pipe. Then it hit me to just drop down to the garage door level, across to the saw, and under the extension table. So no more pipe crossing a walkway that also happens to be the ideal place to bring in sheet goods, put the scroll saw, etc. We have 10' ceilings so that allowed plenty of room for the pipe to be out of the way. Unfortunately it also makes the work a lot harder than normal ceiling height, and requires much more pipe and support for all the drops.

                                Pretty crappy picture taken when I was too tired to work any more (10 hours each day, Sat/Sun)...

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