WTB for craftsman 315x: SMT and shark guard. (san diego, ca)

[Crapsman315]

The shark guard is a want, the SMT is a need. I have the miter fence, but it only has one "nub" on the bottom, so unless I can find that little part, I guess I need the entire SMT assembly. But if only have the sliding miter table top, i'd take that too.

Thanks for looking.

[d_meister]

Do you mean that you have the sliding black plastic pivot point and not the clamp pieces? I think all those bits are available separately, if stocked somewhere.Incidentally, I bought the aluminum extrusion for the rip fence years ago to use for a longer miter fence. Really works better than the original short fence.

[Crapsman315]

Ah, my mistake, my miter fence is complete. I thought it needed a 2nd black pivot point. Ooh, i like the longer miter fence idea.... So you just moved the pivot point and handle to the longer new piece?

[Crapsman315]

After looking closer, I see I was mistaken, my miter fence is intact. But I love the longer fence idea, I might have to try that once I find a miter table. thanks!

[d_meister]

Sorry for the late response; I've been away. Yes, the extrusion for the rip fence is the same as the miter fence, just longer. Moved the pivot, clamp, and the two plastic end caps with all the saw cuts in them to the longer piece. It's especially useful if the accessory dual miter slot table is fitted between the sliding table and saw, since it will extend further towards the blade. The only problems are the tendency to put more saw kerfs in the plastic end piece because it' has no stop . Maybe I should finally paint the red line?
Another is that the pivot springy bit can flex more since there's more leverage when pushing the fence itself. It takes more self control than I have to push only at the clamp. I've often planned to make a better pivot that has no flex. Someday....
It seems to me that the pivot is the reason for some complaints of inaccuracy that these fine saws have suffered. If the rigid side of the pivot is towards the direction of push, then the cut can be accurate at the end of travel, but if you have a grip of the workpiece and fence together and then pull the table back past the spinning blade, there's enough flex on the springy bits to let the workpiece graze the blade. I replaced the clamp knob on the miter guide with a tall knob, like this one;

http://www.rockler.com/4-1-4-tapered-knob-for-shop-jigs

but found that I'm still not trainable. Incidentally, I noticed that Rockler has some nice new styles of knobs for this kind of application. Soft, grippy things!

[dbhost]

http://thesharkguard.com/