I have a fence that is suffering from the ravages of time. Posts are 4 1/8” X 4 1/8” pressure treated. The balance is Canadian red cedar except for 2” X 6”;PT fir I think. The fence looked awesome in it’s prime.
the 2” X 6” kickerboard was on edge between the posts, then a 2X 4 laid flat nailed to the kickerboard. (A “T” configuration) Another 2X4 was fitted about 12” below the top, laid flat between the posts.
Then 4 ea 1” X 2” cedar strips were fastened to the 2x4’s spaced to allow the nominal 1” X 6” fence boards in place before nailing in the last lower 1X2 strip.
Then another 2 X 4 at the top to hold lattice. It really looked great.
To to make a long story longer, all was well for about 15 years then some of the fence boards fell out - the design had a flaw in that water would collect - along with leaves and needles, etc between the fence boards and there was no real way to drain it out. The fence boards rotted away at the bottom and were eventually too short for the space between the two 2x4 and the 1x2 retaining boards. I managed to get them back in place with a 2x4 and a bunch of galvanized screws
Being a thrifty (cheap) Norwegian from Ballard (Seattle) I plan to rebuild the fence using the existing posts, kickerboards, perhaps some of the 2x4’s and finally the fence boards. I have about 60 ea 8’ and 10’ pressure treated 2X 4’s removed from a deck after I replace the decking with tight knot cedar. The PT wood just looked crappy once there was a solid stain (really paint) by the original owner and any re-coating I did only lasted a couple of years. The 60 2x4 PT boards should almost be enough to rebuild the entire fence using three 2x4 for each section.
now for the main reason for this post. I don’t plan on sandwiching the fence boards between 1x2 strips and start the water collection again with subsequent fence board shortening cause by rot. I plan to nail the fence boards with slight separation with nothing under the fence boards. I have a bad shoulder- rotator cuff surgically repaired but I have some limitations with lifting and repetitive stress (hammering nails, etc.) so I am thinking about a nailer - larger than my brad nailer.
My question: would a finish nailer with galv nails be suitable for this job? Or would a stapler with galvanized staples be better? I have a brad nailer and a narrow crown stapler, both are 18 gage which I think is not very substantial.
the 2” X 6” kickerboard was on edge between the posts, then a 2X 4 laid flat nailed to the kickerboard. (A “T” configuration) Another 2X4 was fitted about 12” below the top, laid flat between the posts.
Then 4 ea 1” X 2” cedar strips were fastened to the 2x4’s spaced to allow the nominal 1” X 6” fence boards in place before nailing in the last lower 1X2 strip.
Then another 2 X 4 at the top to hold lattice. It really looked great.
To to make a long story longer, all was well for about 15 years then some of the fence boards fell out - the design had a flaw in that water would collect - along with leaves and needles, etc between the fence boards and there was no real way to drain it out. The fence boards rotted away at the bottom and were eventually too short for the space between the two 2x4 and the 1x2 retaining boards. I managed to get them back in place with a 2x4 and a bunch of galvanized screws
Being a thrifty (cheap) Norwegian from Ballard (Seattle) I plan to rebuild the fence using the existing posts, kickerboards, perhaps some of the 2x4’s and finally the fence boards. I have about 60 ea 8’ and 10’ pressure treated 2X 4’s removed from a deck after I replace the decking with tight knot cedar. The PT wood just looked crappy once there was a solid stain (really paint) by the original owner and any re-coating I did only lasted a couple of years. The 60 2x4 PT boards should almost be enough to rebuild the entire fence using three 2x4 for each section.
now for the main reason for this post. I don’t plan on sandwiching the fence boards between 1x2 strips and start the water collection again with subsequent fence board shortening cause by rot. I plan to nail the fence boards with slight separation with nothing under the fence boards. I have a bad shoulder- rotator cuff surgically repaired but I have some limitations with lifting and repetitive stress (hammering nails, etc.) so I am thinking about a nailer - larger than my brad nailer.
My question: would a finish nailer with galv nails be suitable for this job? Or would a stapler with galvanized staples be better? I have a brad nailer and a narrow crown stapler, both are 18 gage which I think is not very substantial.
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