I HATE drywall.

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  • dbhost
    Slow and steady
    • Apr 2008
    • 9209
    • League City, Texas
    • Ryobi BT3100

    I HATE drywall.

    I've spent the weekend doing something I despise.

    Removing wallpaper, and patching drywall.

    We are remodelling the kitchen, and found a LOT of old wall anchors, the kind that splay out in the back permanently, that were proud of the surrounding surface. So back into the wall they went along with the surrounding pieces. I have spent the last 3 days patching, and mudding.

    Ick.

    So far, I have...

    #1. Patched and textured the kitchen bay window walls.
    #2. Patches and textured the open wall in the kitchen.
    #3. Patched, textured, and painted the wall behind the new, MUCH smaller thermostat in the front hallway.
    #4. Patched and textured the new office / studio wall.

    I still need to strip that stupid wall paper from the kitchen in areas away from the patches...

    Did I already say ick?
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  • leehljp
    Just me
    • Dec 2002
    • 8429
    • Tunica, MS
    • BT3000/3100

    #2
    I hear you.

    I watch drywall workers doing it with ease. I too despise it. I can do it, but what I hate about it is my penchant for being tooo much of a perfectionist. "Is it tight on the studs, is it loose? Did I go too far with the screw and break the tension (or what ever you call it)? Will the wall flex and show the nail/screw recess? I agonize over every screw recess, and then if it is going to telegraph through the paint.

    But I despise painting walls even more.
    Hank Lee

    Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

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    • cwsmith
      Veteran Member
      • Dec 2005
      • 2737
      • NY Southern Tier, USA.
      • BT3100-1

      #3
      We all have 'a thing' that we hate... we me, it's plumbing! I actually don't mine doing drywall, having converted the attached garage in the Painted Post house many years ago. That was just bare studs, so had to insulate and drywall the whole thing, as wells as a new ceiling. A few years before we re-did the kitchen and my wife wanted that rough, old world look. There was a product back then called 'Rough-It". That was nasty, as the old wall had been painted with kitchen enamel and were thus smooth and slippery. I had to score those walls to prevent the 'Rough-It' from just sliding off.

      When we bought this old home (1887) here in Binghamton, every wall was covered in paper, several layers. We hired a contractor to strip and skimcoat... a very costly job. They did a horrible job and sometimes the coat was so thin you could feel residue underneath it that they hadn't completely removed. In most places though, the coat was so thick that it was pocked with air-holes. So, I spent several week patching and re-coating.

      When I drywall, use the 3X method, taping first then applying the mud, slowly building it up with three applications to cover shrinkage. I start with a six-inch putty knife and end with a one-foot blade. I then sand with a wet-block. For whatever reason, I just haven't had a problem with drywall popping loose from a scew, but I do remember old jobs when they used to use dry-wall nails.

      I'll do drywall, electrical, carpentry, and even roofing... but plumbing I hate and will go to almost any lengths to avoid it.

      CWS
      Think it Through Before You Do!

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      • atgcpaul
        Veteran Member
        • Aug 2003
        • 4055
        • Maryland
        • Grizzly 1023SLX

        #4
        Fiberglass or paper tape for the seams? I have to put drywall back in the bathroom after the shower enclosure is in. I also have inside corner seams where two walls meet or where wall and ceiling meet where the tape has failed and I need to patch it.

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        • cwsmith
          Veteran Member
          • Dec 2005
          • 2737
          • NY Southern Tier, USA.
          • BT3100-1

          #5
          I used that yellow fiberglass, self-adhesive tape when I did the garage. On one hand, I liked it because it's self-adhesive and strong. Perfect for doing those seams where the tapered edges of the drywall sheets meet. However, in places where you don't have those tapered edges, like when two cut edges meet, then your get a slightly thicker profile that you have to mud. That of course causes a bump that you have to deal with.

          Paper tape is much thinner, but you have to lay down a layer of mud paste first, embed the tape. Don't know if they have a self-adhesive paper tape.


          CWS
          Think it Through Before You Do!

          Comment

          • JimD
            Veteran Member
            • Feb 2003
            • 4187
            • Lexington, SC.

            #6
            I like to use the fiberglass tape because I find it easier to keep it low next to the drywall. I sometimes get too much mud under the paper tape so I sand into it. Because the fiberglass creates a weaker joint than paper, I usually use setting type compound - the kind that comes in bags - for at least the first coat. In bathrooms, I like to use it for all the coats (sometimes I get by with two). It is water resistant. It has plaster of paris in it. It doesn't sand as easily as the stuff out of the bucket but it sands OK. For the first coat, I sand with 100 grit - instead of 150 which I use for final sanding. Sometimes I use 100 first for the second coat too.

            I am re-doing a bathroom at the moment. I cut into the kitchen ceiling Thursday night to get to the drain from the shower. I found out the cast iron transitions to plastic. I want to cut out the cast iron but will have to transition to a steel vent pipe. That's tomorrow. Today was getting the new 4 piece shower stall in. An Aquaglass. It is going OK - not quite done. I had to go get it but I had the framing done (moved a wall last weekend). The new control valve was also soldered in. I had to pull the cartridge to get the back wall in. It is U shaped to give you some shelves in the corner. I also had to remove the door jamb and casing and door. The base is in (plaster of paris under it), the back wall is in, and one end is partially in, I quit before putting all the screws in. I also need to add a piece to brace the side wall that wants to rattle a little where it slips into the back wall. I'm a little worried about the valve clamping to the fiberglass wall but I'll give that a try tomorrow too. But the main thing tomorrow will be to get the drain installed and the ceiling patched. It is popcorn and I haven't removed it in that area. Have to decide if it's worth making the mess right now.

            I don't mind either drywall or plumbing but I guess I'd rather do plumbing. Drywall makes a mess although I have a little festool hand sander I can use with a vacuum hooped up and it helps. But plumbing can be a pain too. I had to solder the valve 5 times to get it not to leak. I did it first time last time but the supply pipes were too close to the valve and I tried to get by with a worn out inside the pipe brush and old flux. I finally went and got some new stuff and got it not to leak. Plastic is definitely easier.

            I will get to make a little cabinet with drawers to finish this bathroom. That will be much more fun than either drywall or plumbing. But the wife wants new ceramic tile so I still have some demo to do first. Demo is my least favorite. Lots of work and it looks like heck when you're done. I like it better when I get to make it look OK.

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