Is a Reconditioned 13 Amp 7-1/4 in. Corded Circular Saw ok?

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  • FuryRoad
    Forum Newbie
    • May 2016
    • 19
    • Atlanta, ga

    Is a Reconditioned 13 Amp 7-1/4 in. Corded Circular Saw ok?

    I thought about buying this, Reconditioned 13 Amp 7-1/4 in. Corded Circular Saw, at HD. Is it a terrible saw? Beginner projects and maybe an 8x10 shed.
  • BadeMillsap
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2005
    • 868
    • Bulverde, Texas, USA.
    • Grizzly G1023SL

    #2
    I don't know that saw specifically but I have several Ryobi tools that have served me well for years.

    Via Tapatalk-- Bade
    "Like an old desperado, I paint the town beige ..." REK
    Bade Millsap
    Bulverde, Texas
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    • FuryRoad
      Forum Newbie
      • May 2016
      • 19
      • Atlanta, ga

      #3
      I read it can only do wood. I don't know I'd need it for anything else though.

      Comment

      • cwsmith
        Veteran Member
        • Dec 2005
        • 2737
        • NY Southern Tier, USA.
        • BT3100-1

        #4
        That's what they're designed for... Cutting wood! Not sure if they're safe for anything else, and in more than fifty years of using circular saws I've never entertained the thought of using them otherwise!

        Regarding "refurbished" vs "new", why not? The size of your budget and your immediate need is going to be the determining factor, IMHO. Ryobi is one my favorite brands and I own more Ryobi products than anything else.
        (I have a Ryobi-built Craftsman 7" circular saw that I bought in 1970, and it still works flawlessly.)

        While most all of my purchased tools have been new, I really don't see any flaws in " factory refurbish. However, I stay well clear of some so-called "refurbished" tags i've seen at my local Home Depot... They look like a local 'good-buddy' swapped their used and abused junk for something new! It's usually filthy and all scuffed up. Factory refurbished is always clean, like new, boxed, and with limited warranty.

        CWS
        Think it Through Before You Do!

        Comment

        • mpc
          Senior Member
          • Feb 2005
          • 979
          • Cypress, CA, USA.
          • BT3000 orig 13amp model

          #5
          For circular saws, and almost any tool in general, the quality of the blade often makes far more difference than the brand of the tool itself. A good carbide combination blade and that Ryobi saw would probably serve quite well for shed tasks and general shop work. Don't be surprised that a quality blade can cost more than that saw. The red Diablo line of carbide toothed blades sold at HD are generally pretty good; I use Diablo blades in my BT3, my miter saw, and a radial arm saw, for almost everything. I try to use the right blade for each job too - many toothed blades for crosscuts, proper rip blades for rip cuts in long or thick stock, negative hook angle blades in the radial arm saw, etc. Modern combination blades though can be almost as good as job-specific blades for many cuts. A steel toothed blade generally won't stay sharp very long... carbide stays sharp much longer. Go for "thin kerf" blades too if the saw can handle them - they create a smaller kerf which means less work for the saw motor and less wasted wood.

          Search this site for "sawboards" as a simple gizmo you can make once you have a circular saw + blade. That'll help you make long and straight cuts. Make one 4 feet long and another about 8 feet long for easy use when cutting plywood or panels sold for underlayment or wall skins. Then a basic carpenter's "speed square" (those plastic triangles with a lip along one edge) makes a quick guide for cutting 90 degree & 45 degree crosscuts.

          There are "metal cutting" circular saws out there. Generally they're similar to woodcutting circ saws but have special blades and are designed to keep metal shavings out of the motor & bearing area. You may also see twin-blade setups designed for metal cutting; these are pretty gnarly looking tools. Metal cutting takes a pretty beefy saw... and it can jerk quite violently if the blade grabs during a too-fast cut. There are also metal cutting chopsaws - these use a solid composite material disk (brown color typically) as blades... instead of "cutting" metal they grind through it. These types of saws are good at cutting metal pipes, "L" shaped metal stock, some flat stock (crosscuts only), square tube, etc. Basically everything other than actual sheet metal. What kinds of metal do you think you might need to cut? Metal cutting shears (basically beefy scissors) are easier to handle though they typically use air compressor power. With practice, you can make good cuts in thin sheet metal with "tin snips" which are scissor-like tools specifically made for cutting thin sheet metal. They are typically sold as three tools: one for straight cuts, one to make left turns, and one to make right turns. Harbor Freight Tools sells (or at least used to sell) reasonable quality snips at typical HF low prices. Wear good gloves when cutting sheet metal (power circular saw, power shears, or hand snips) for safety.

          mpc
          Last edited by mpc; 05-12-2016, 02:47 AM.

          Comment

          • capncarl
            Veteran Member
            • Jan 2007
            • 3564
            • Leesburg Georgia USA
            • SawStop CTS

            #6
            My favorite circular saw is the cheapest one. I have an older Milwaukee all metal saw, a real tank, an a couple of $100 saws. I purchased a metal cutting blade "deal" where if you buy 3 blades you get a free skil saw. Nice looking saw but it's safety's and guards stunk. I didn't want to ruin the saw cutting metal so I purchased a remanufacured B&D for $17. When I tried the $17 saw I liked the trigger, you didn't need 3 hands to turn it on like the Skil, and the guard worked great, so I now use the Skil for cutting metal and the $17 saw for wood and the Milwaukee stays in the cabinet.
            So yes, it doesn't have to be an expensive saw to be a good one. Like mpc says, the blade is the trick, buy a good blade with the money you saved on a cheaper saw and have fun.
            As for metal, I'll jump on a piece of steel with my circular saw in a minute! With the proper blade it will cut 3/4" plate like butter. It will scare everybody watching to death when you drag out a woodworking saw to cut steel, but by the time they look back around the corner you are finished!
            capncarl

            Comment

            • poolhound
              Veteran Member
              • Mar 2006
              • 3195
              • Phoenix, AZ
              • BT3100

              #7
              As others have said the blade makes a huge difference. If budget and price point is a big issue for you this would be a good value option. I have a basic corded Skil saw that has worked well for many years. DO check your local Craigslist as you could find a good deal there on a used saw. As you start to get the tool bug like rest of us you will end up having to join TA (Tools Anonymous) :-) Usually enforced by LOML!

              A good place for reconditioned and new quality tools is CPO Outlets. they have online stores for all the major brands. Dont forget to check Amazon as they often have one of the lowest price points.
              Jon

              Phoenix AZ - It's a dry heat
              ________________________________

              We all make mistakes and I should know I've made enough of them
              techzibits.com

              Comment

              • dbhost
                Slow and steady
                • Apr 2008
                • 9209
                • League City, Texas
                • Ryobi BT3100

                #8
                While I don't have that particular saw, I have plenty of Ryobi tools, and I have used Ryobi circular saws in the past, the older blue housing 13 amp model.

                I don't need a laser sight on my circular saw, as long as it is a strong, safe tool that is made well enough to stand years of MY abuse, I am fine. I am no contractor, and I don't need a multi hundred dollar saw. Even if I were in daily, hourly use, unless I was in a factory / shop setting with strong inventory / asset control I wouldn't put big money into a circ saw. They have a habit of walking away from you...

                Inevitably the blade will likely be terrible. Pretty much on any circular saw. Invest in a good general purpose blade, Irwin makes decent affordable blades under their Marples line, and the Freud Diablo blades are wonderful blades at a lower price point. Keep anything you don't want cut off away from the blade, and you are good to go!
                Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

                Comment

                • JimD
                  Veteran Member
                  • Feb 2003
                  • 4187
                  • Lexington, SC.

                  #9
                  I had an inexpensive saw at first and it worked fine. I replaced it with a Milwaukee after ruining it's bearings with an abrasive blade cutting concrete. If I hadn't abused it, it would probably still be working fine. If your usage is around the house, I think it will be fine. If you were going to use it all day long to make a living, maybe spending a little more is in order. But for occasional use, should work fine. 13A is big enough, by the way. There are 15A saws but there have also been 13A table saws. A 13A circular saw should cut 2X lumber just fine.

                  Comment

                  • FuryRoad
                    Forum Newbie
                    • May 2016
                    • 19
                    • Atlanta, ga

                    #10
                    I think I may just sink it all into this,



                    Milwaukee Model # 6390-21 15 Amp 7-1/4 in. TILT-LOK Circular Saw

                    $129. That's a pretty good buy from what I could see. I am thinking get the best I can instead of two or three not so good things.

                    Comment

                    • capncarl
                      Veteran Member
                      • Jan 2007
                      • 3564
                      • Leesburg Georgia USA
                      • SawStop CTS

                      #11
                      Caution, while Milwaukee is one of the best tool makers available, I believe this model is one of the saws that requires multiple things to happen to get it to go. I'm not comfortable having to use 2 hands to operate the safety's and then have to quickly tickle the blade guard to get it over the edge of the board. Give the saw a good look over and try the safety switch and trigger, and see how the blade guard works before you buy it.

                      Comment

                      • JimD
                        Veteran Member
                        • Feb 2003
                        • 4187
                        • Lexington, SC.

                        #12
                        My old Milwaukee does not have the bothersome extra "safety" but I don't know about new ones. i would look at the Dewalt or Bosch, however, if buying one now. Both offer dust collection ports which would be handy inside.

                        Comment

                        • tfischer
                          Veteran Member
                          • Jul 2003
                          • 2343
                          • Plymouth (Minneapolis), MN, USA.
                          • BT3100

                          #13
                          It's $30... I'm sure it will work well enough and if it blows up after a year or two (it will likely last much longer) you will certainly get your money's worth out of it.

                          When I bought my first house in 1996, I went out and spent like $150 on a nice Bosch circ saw, thinking "I'm going to start buying quality tools now instead of cheap stuff". Well it turns out I rarely use that tool, especially after I got my first CMS, so I could have probably saved a lot of money and just bought a cheaper one. But it *is* a nice saw when I do use it (I actually pulled it out for the first time in several years last night to cut down some 4x8 panels)

                          Comment

                          • cwsmith
                            Veteran Member
                            • Dec 2005
                            • 2737
                            • NY Southern Tier, USA.
                            • BT3100-1

                            #14
                            Good point on the safety lock-out.

                            Milwaukee is a great brand, but you must take note of any annoyances in their operational design. I'm not familiar with that model, but I do have my old (69-70) Craftsman which has no safety lock-out, and I have a 18-V Ridgid 6-1/4 which has a safety-lockout slide just in front of the trigger. The latter can be pushed-in with the thumb while the trigger is pulled. I do prefer the old Craftsman, where the safety is simple... leave your darn finger outside the guard and away from the trigger!

                            At the time I bought that old Craftsman, most circular saws were big and quite heavy with only a single handle. The attraction for me with the Craftsman model that I bought was that it also had a forward handle, which for me offered a significant safety measure when operating, especially for use over a few hours. (Most saws back then did not have a forward handle. The opposite is true today.)

                            My late FIL had a much newer Craftsman 7-1/4 which was one of the many tools the store gave him on his retirement in the late 90's (he was an award-winning hardware manager at Sears). On his passing, I found it was still sealed in the box. That saw had the safety lock-out located on top of the saw handle, to the front of the trigger housing. It was very awkward, being rather stiff and needing to be substantially depressed in order to unlock the trigger. It required significant force with your left hand while you tried to hold the saw and pull the trigger with your right. Total PIA and I never did use it... just putting it back in the box and gave it away to another relative.

                            For me, I think a 'safety' needs to be thought of before activation, not something that can be easily over-ridden, but also not something that is such an annoyance or difficult to use that it distracts the user from using the tool safely. From my point of view, such difficult designs are more a risk to safety.

                            Bottom line is that with any tool, the buyer should familiarize themselves with how the tool works-in-hand. Some tool designs can be so annoying that they are dangerous.

                            CWS
                            Think it Through Before You Do!

                            Comment

                            • vaking
                              Veteran Member
                              • Apr 2005
                              • 1428
                              • Montclair, NJ, USA.
                              • Ryobi BT3100-1

                              #15
                              For the kind of money Milwakee costs - I would rather look at a worm saw. My circular saw is 20 years old Skil saw. Most cuts I make are either crosscut or plywood - both call for a blade with many teeth. I use 40 tooth carbide blade - cuts very clean. I also added a little dust collection attachment.
                              Alex V

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