More utilization of the challenge 2x6...

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  • dbhost
    Slow and steady
    • Apr 2008
    • 9209
    • League City, Texas
    • Ryobi BT3100

    More utilization of the challenge 2x6...

    I had plenty of left over 2x6 from my challenge project, and I was getting thoroughly annoyed at having to walk around the table saw, past the band saw and then back each time I wanted one of my drill press accessories that wasn't in a case on the shelf, so I built a basic little drill press accessory caddy...

    The entire thing is simply held together with screws, no glue. I wanted to be able to take it apart and drill pockets for additional items if need be...





    So far I have a 2-5/16" and 2-3/8" forstner bits, a cheap set of plug cutters, counter sinks, a variety of spade bits from 1/4" to 1-1/2" with spaces for the missing sizes and the pilot drilling counter sinks.

    The only thing I haven't figured out a decent hole for are my bit stops...

    As folks may recall, I am in a constant search mode for space saving ideas, and as this utilizes the space between the garage doors quite well, I am pretty happy with it so far...

    Now that this is done, my loose router bit tray needs a redesign. I might just make another one of these sized specifically for my router bits...
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  • 3thumbs
    Established Member
    • Oct 2008
    • 162
    • Northern Colorado
    • Delta 10" contractor saw/cast wings

    #2
    I had a bunch of flat bits standing up straight like that, and after I gored my hand for the second time, I made a cover.

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    • dbhost
      Slow and steady
      • Apr 2008
      • 9209
      • League City, Texas
      • Ryobi BT3100

      #3
      Reach up from underneath the spade part of the bit, don't approach from above...
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      • 3thumbs
        Established Member
        • Oct 2008
        • 162
        • Northern Colorado
        • Delta 10" contractor saw/cast wings

        #4
        I probably shouldn't have put the drill holders just above!

        Comment

        • dbhost
          Slow and steady
          • Apr 2008
          • 9209
          • League City, Texas
          • Ryobi BT3100

          #5
          Oh now THAT hurts...

          I am actually considering a re-do of this, to integrate it, with the shelf above, and add even more storage into that small space... Already have the sketchup done...

          Funny thing is, if you look closely, you can see most of those spade bits have seen much better days, and are well worn out, resharpened almost past usefulness.

          The worst part is, because those bits are so stinking worn out, I am seriously considering getting a new set of Irwin Speed Bor bits, which come in a case, and can handily be stored on my drill bit shelf...

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          Comment

          • 3thumbs
            Established Member
            • Oct 2008
            • 162
            • Northern Colorado
            • Delta 10" contractor saw/cast wings

            #6
            No matter what you decide to do, that's a good way to use up your 2X6 scraps, and you did a fine job with it.
            DM

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            • TCOTTLE
              Established Member
              • May 2009
              • 152
              • Greenbush Maine
              • Ryobi BT3000

              #7
              How about some pieces of dowel either on the front at a slight angle, or on the sides to put your bit stops on?

              Comment

              • LCHIEN
                Internet Fact Checker
                • Dec 2002
                • 20913
                • Katy, TX, USA.
                • BT3000 vintage 1999

                #8
                spade bit storage

                Yes, that storage method does look real dangerous....

                made this spade bit storage box a few years back...
                used a piece of 1x8 and a piece of 3/16 plywood, some hinges and a couple of countersunk velcro circles to latch the lid shut.

                Hogged out with router, chisel and probably some forstners.

                Here's the simple plans:
                Sort your bits, make a table of the widths, add 1/8" between them. Allow 1/4" at the edges, make a table of the box edge, location of the center of each bit, leaving 1/8" plus half the width of each bit between them. Then add 1/2 the width of the largest bit plus 1/4" and now you have the length of the board to cut.
                Draw the lines make sure everything will fit, drill the finger lift holes with a 1" forstner 1/4" deep before you lose the centerlines.
                Use a 5/16 router, make a bunch of blind 1/4" deep, fence guided, stopped dadoes from 1/4" from the bottom to about the length of the shank.
                Lay each bit in the slot, the head won't go down but now you can trace the outline of the bit.
                Use a router handheld to hog out most of the head area, then come in with a chisel to finish the tips and straighten the edges. Depth of router for the heads is less deep than the shanks.
                I didn't plan for how to close it until the end and did not leave space for velcro and had to put them where it fit. I drilled a small 1/4" pilot hole and used a center dowel locating thingy to put a dent in the top, then used a forstner to drill sunk holes for the velcro, the sunken hole in the top being just enuf to locate the velcro pad. The finger lift indent in the middle of the front edge, just use a half round ******* file.
                Attached Files
                Last edited by LCHIEN; 05-15-2011, 12:39 AM.
                Loring in Katy, TX USA
                If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                Comment

                • LCHIEN
                  Internet Fact Checker
                  • Dec 2002
                  • 20913
                  • Katy, TX, USA.
                  • BT3000 vintage 1999

                  #9
                  Dave, if you want to store your drill stop collars two things come to mind:
                  1. Just put a single dowel in the base, dowel dia = 1/8" (or smaller than your smallest drill collar) and long enough to stack the collars.
                  or,
                  2. put a series of short dowels of appropriate fitted size labeled with the collar dia. (biut this takes a lot more room and will probably be a pain to get the collars off unless you make the dowels a 1/16th undersized each.
                  or
                  3. Put a finish nail in the back angles slightly upwards. Hang your collars on that.

                  Really, use your depth stop on the drill press instead of collars! I have stop collars but always use the DP depth stop mechanism, whenever possible.
                  Loring in Katy, TX USA
                  If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                  BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                  Comment

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