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I've recently completed a kitchen for the son of a friend - he turned up with a truck-load of flatpacks, looking for someone to install them! In total, there were 12 base units, 7 wall units and 6 worktops - two of which had to be joined lengthwise to make a peninsular top.
To make the job more "interesting," the way the units fix means that they have flush backs. I'm used to cabinets with inset backs (for plumbing and electric recess), but in this case I had to run the plumbing below toe-kick height, then step it out and up through the bottom of the unit.
The wooden worktops were beech staves, 38mm (1.5") thick, but they had a very small chamfer around every single edge - talk about making life difficult for the fitter! If I'd have butted them as they were, either together for the peninsular, or at right angles for the worktop returns, there would have been a "V" groove at the joint. It's bad practice to use a mason's miter with real wood worktops, so there was nothing for it but to remove the chamfer with a router along the joining faces, finish up with a chisel, then butt join the pieces. I used conventional worktop connecting bolts and biscuits to aid alignment and everything turned out fine. I'm especially pleased with the peninsular - I know where the join is and I can't see it!
I'll let someone else have the sheer joy of tiling!
If you're interested, pictures are here.
Ray.
To make the job more "interesting," the way the units fix means that they have flush backs. I'm used to cabinets with inset backs (for plumbing and electric recess), but in this case I had to run the plumbing below toe-kick height, then step it out and up through the bottom of the unit.
The wooden worktops were beech staves, 38mm (1.5") thick, but they had a very small chamfer around every single edge - talk about making life difficult for the fitter! If I'd have butted them as they were, either together for the peninsular, or at right angles for the worktop returns, there would have been a "V" groove at the joint. It's bad practice to use a mason's miter with real wood worktops, so there was nothing for it but to remove the chamfer with a router along the joining faces, finish up with a chisel, then butt join the pieces. I used conventional worktop connecting bolts and biscuits to aid alignment and everything turned out fine. I'm especially pleased with the peninsular - I know where the join is and I can't see it!
I'll let someone else have the sheer joy of tiling!
If you're interested, pictures are here.
Ray.
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