Blade torquing when moved up and down

[wd4lc]

I've noticed that the saw blade torques slightly out of vertical when I'm rising or lowering the blade. After rising or lowering, I back it out ever so slightly (when it feels free and loose) to straighten it out. If I get in there and blow out the big blade screw rise thing and apply more dry wax to it will that alleviate the problem or is it another issue altogether?

On another note, I need to make several cuts at the same length. Is there a way to set a dimension on the saw so that I'm not constantly marking each piece of wood and aligning it with the blade. I've seen people use stopgaps (I think they are called) with their sleds. I have not built a sled yet. So is there a simple stopgap thing that can be built for the bt as-is.

Thanks.

[greenacres2]

Don't know about the lift issue, but if you're on the stock stand the mechanism is fairly easy to get to so it's worth a look.

On the stop block issue--depends on the lenght you need to cut. If you're talking 18-20" or so (short enough to be within the width of the front rail) just clamp a wooden block to the front rail and use it to align your cuts. Make sure to check it often to make sure it hasn't moved. I've also used painters tape on the table a few times to mark a spot--but only if i can take it off within a few hours.

earl

[LCHIEN]

assuming the blade arbor nut is tight...
the blade should not tilt or twist if the arbor is supported by good bearings,
if the motor is correctly mounted to the locker bracket,
if the locker bracket is sliding correctly with shims tight to the vertical ways in the main housing. All the above must be correct. The elevation screw should be lubed and kept clean to operate smoothly but it is not responsible for any blade slop, only a few thousands backlash (vertical travel when you change direction).

as for cutting to length,
depends on whether your measured cut off piece is between the blade and the miter fence (i.e. to the left of the blade) or to the right of the blade when using the conventional SMT on the left of the saw.

If the cut piece is to the right, you can use the rip fence as a stop, but you risk a kickback so usually a small block is clamped to the rip fence completely before the blade. And the workpiece is slid up to the stop black rather than the fence so when you push the workpiece forward it clears the stop block before contacting the blade.

If the measured cutoff piece is to be on the left of the blade, then a stop block clamped to the miter fence will set one end and the length of the cutoff is between the block and the blade. If the length is longer than the left end of the miter fence, shift the fence, shift the SMT on the rails, or attach a longer face fence extension to the miter fence.