i have had my 3000 for around 9 years now and never have i had a problem...until now...i find that my long cuts are not accurate..they veer off about 1/16th at the end of the cut...i have checked everything(i thought) but yesterday i tapped the rear of the fence a tad and voila! no more off centre cuts!!! now i have read all the instructions regarding the correct way to instal the fence on the rear rails etc but that danged fence still needs a tap to enable me to get a true cut....who can help this poor miserable soul whose fence seems to have a mind of it's own?any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
fence problem on my 3000
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Originally posted by glencross"but yesterday i tapped the rear of the fence a tad and voila! no more off centre cuts!!! "on the rear rails etc but that danged fence still needs a tap to enable me to get a true cut....who can help this poor miserable soul whose fence seems to have a mind of it's own?any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
I understand that there is a "Push-rod" inside the Rip Fence that is actuated by the lowering of the Handle at the front of the Fence.
I'd think that a small amount of Lithium Grease on the ends of that Push-Rod would go a long way towards curing your problem.Stop thinking why you can't and Start thinking how you CAN!
Remember, SUCCESS comes in CANS!
George -
With the rip fence of the saw, operate the handle and observe
the hook on the rear end. This hook grabs the edge of a slot on the rear rail. At the last stage when you lower the handle, the hook should move upwards.
If it does not move, then likely you need some lubrication as mentioned above, the first thing I'd try is just some WD40 on the read mechanism and then try again using a little finger pushing and pulling to ease things along (maybe the hook is retracted and won't drop back down, a little *very* gentle prying could work it loose).
When it is moving, install the fence and observe that the hook must go in first into the slot. Then operate the handle and observe that the hook is properly grabbing the rear rail.
The BT3 series saws have a unique fence mechanism - the front rail is grabbed first by two plastic pads as the handle is first operates, this squares up the fence with respect to the rail, saw and blade. Then the rear hook engages, ensuring that the rear end of the saw stays put.Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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The rear clamper actually works on the underside of the rear slot, not the edge. See the diagram below:
To mount the fence, make sure that you insert the rear clamper as at "A" - you'll probably need to slacken the adjustment screw off quite a bit and lift up the handle end of the fence quite high to achieve this.
Next, screw in the adjustment screw all the way, then back off about a turn. Now make sure that when the handle operates, the clamper locates as in picture "B" (which is the correct actuation) and NOT as in picture "C" which is a common cause of similar problems to the one you're having. You can then tune the adjustment screw to your taste - the further it's in the less far down you'll need to push the operating handle to achieve a stable locked fence. I've got my screw all the way in, which means that my handle is only just below horizontal when the fence locks. HTH
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