Raising or lower the blade is difficult

[billyjim]

I found it became increasing difficult to raise or lower the saw balade on my BT3100. I disassembled the saw and removed the Guide Holder from the Locker Bracket to clean and examine the shims. I fould the Guide Holder, with shims in place, was a very snug fit in the Locker Bracket (the motor had been swung out of the arbor). Considerable force was required to move the Guide Holder in the locker bracket. I purchased and installed new shims but this did not change anything. The Blade Elevation/Tilt Assembly operates freely when the motor is disengaged from the arbor. Any suggestions as to what is causing this problem?

[softop41]

blade raising

billyjim,
When mine gets hard to turn, it is almost always the contact area between the bevel gear on the screw thread and the bracket below it is dry. When this is happening, it is noticably easier to lower the blade than to raise it because the weight of the motor, etc is on that contact area when raising the blade. I spent a lot of time over a year or so trying to figure out this problem. Now, I automatically clean and wax the shims, rub waxpaper on the screwthread and clean out between the bevel gear and the support and lube it with some white grease. I know, grease collects sawdust, but anything else I tried just didn't do the job for long enough to be worth the time and effort.
HTH
Jerry

[JimD]

I agree with Jerry's clean and lube suggestions. I just use spray lube, however. I picked up a can of something that is supposed to dry where it won't hold dust. Seems to work for several months. About once or twice a year I tilt the saw up (I have a tilt base for the saw on my mobile base) and throughly blow off all the sawdust and then lube.

I need to do this right now and will probably do it later today. Shouldn't take more than half an hour or so.

The shims have to be a very tight fit to the part they slide on. That is what prevents wobble of the blade. This tight fit is also what makes it important that this area stay lubed and reasonably clean. This fit is a bit fussier than other table saws but the maintenance is so simple I do not consider it a big drawback.

Jim

[Ken Weaver]

I've learned to do the clean and lube process after each major project. Makes a huge difference. I use the teflon spray lube. Once I moved the grounding screw and wire to the front panel, the side panel now goes off and on easily removing the hardest part (and biggest hinderence) of this process.

[softop41]

spray lubes

To those who have found spray lubes that they are successful with........
Could you please post the names of them because I spent enough money trying various ones that I finally just quit but I now have a multi-colored display on my shelf of ones that didn't do the trick.
TIA
Jerry

[jl]

I had some difficulty lifting and lowering the blade until recently. What solved the problem was removing the slop in the bevel gear (parts #23, page 43) of the lifting mechanism. This adjustment was done by tightening screw #49. Now it works better than when the saw was new.

[RickT]

I had a similar problem with the blade elevation becoming difficult to operate. I decided to tear down the saw and clean/lube everything. I've tried several lubricants and believe paraffin wax (candle wax) works the best. Here's a post of what I did. The blade elevation works more smoothly up and down than when it was new.

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=17889

[Jim 05]

I have a 3 year old BT3100 and within the last two weeks it has become so difficult to raise and lower the blade, I am going to have to do something about it, so I'm glad I found this thread.

I don't want to go through the major disassembly route that RickT used, just a simple "lube job."

How do I access the parts I need to lube: do I get underneath the saw, or remove the front panel, left side panel, right side panel, or what??

Thanks,
Jim

[mpauly]

To those who have found spray lubes that they are successful with........
Could you please post the names of them because I spent enough money trying various ones that I finally just quit but I now have a multi-colored display on my shelf of ones that didn't do the trick.
TIA
Jerry

I've not used it on my BT, but I use the Dupont Teflon lube on my motorcycle chains and it doesn't attract dirt at all. Every other lube I used would pick up tons of road grime, but this seems to do the trick. I also use it for door hinges as well. While there's likely way more dust under the hood of your BT, this may work for you as well.

It's only $5 or so at your local lowes (in a blue spray can near the tool section).

Michael

[Eric]

I use the teflon lube from lowes on my saw also.

[Ken Weaver]

I have a 3 year old BT3100 and within the last two weeks it has become so difficult to raise and lower the blade, I am going to have to do something about it, so I'm glad I found this thread.

I don't want to go through the major disassembly route that RickT used, just a simple "lube job."

How do I access the parts I need to lube: do I get underneath the saw, or remove the front panel, left side panel, right side panel, or what??

Thanks,
Jim

Email on the way.

[Ken Weaver]

This is what I sent Jim in case anyone else interested -

Jim -

Been there - done that! Its not a big deal really. The place that needs to be cleaned and lubed is the lift mechanism behind the right hand side panel, the side with the plug. You will find that the grounding wire is a real pain, It's worth the couple of minutes it takes to relocate it to the front panel. Just drill a hole next to the power switch, disconnect the ground wire from the side panel and reattach it to the front panel. That makes taking the right side panel off and on for maintenance much easier.

Once you have the side panel off, you'll see the bevel gear on the end of the hand wheel and the vertical geared rod that lifts the blade assembly. That's the part that needs attention. It will probably be gunked up with sawdust and grease. Clean it all up and you'll see a world of difference.

Lot of the guys use soap or candle wax to lube the gears. I tried them but have settled on a dry lubricant, a spray teflon as doing the best for me. I tried WD40 and it works, but sawdust is attracted to it. You may want to experiment. The real trick is to make this process a regular habit. I do it after every major project and haven't had any more problems since.

Hope this helps -

[Jim 05]

Buying spray lube

Thanks to Ken Weaver for his reply on WHAT to lube and tips on the TYPE of lube.

Today I went to Lowe's to get a can of Teflon lube and found that they actually have 3 types of Dupont Teflon lube. But, there is only one that is the "dry" type: It is the BLUE can (as someone had mentioned) and it is labeled:

Dupont
Teflon
Multi-Use
Dry Lubricant

And it's price was $4.95.

This type says it "will not attract grit or grime." The other two types were definitely NOT Dry Lubricant and would probably attract sawdust.

I'll try it in the next day or two.

Jim

[RayintheUK]

Not trying to confuse the issue here, just to add something. When I did my last big clean after running loads of MDF through, I was looking to improve the raise/lower action, which had become fairly stiff. I did the usual vacuum and airline blow-out, followed by a careful exam and a lube (White Lightening).

Working on the carrier and shims made no difference, but I found that the problem was a lack of lubrication on the handle shaft and tilting gear, located right behind the front panel. Smooth as silk now, so don't forget to include that mechanism in your cleanup.

Ray.

[Jim 05]

Works great now

I lubed several places related to changing blade height yesterday and it now works better than it did when it was new. I moved the ground wire like Ken Weaver suggested to make it easier to get into next time.

I used the Dupont Teflon Multi-purpose Dry Wax Lubricant I bought at Lowe's for $4.99.

Thank goodness for this forum. And special thanks again to Ken.