My personal objectives in making this were:

1. Maintain Safety
2. Be easy-on, easy-off
3. Provide for the most used (at least for me) position of the saw blade ie 90 degrees.

Because of the safety issues, make and use this AT YOUR OWN RISK. In practice, I have found the so-called anti kick-back pawls more of a hindrance than a help – and of course they mark most timber. As always, stay away from the “line of fire” when sawing. I believe the splitter (riving knife) prevents most kick-back situations from occurring, and a partial thru cut is the only time I remove the splitter – but I do this often, so I don’t want getting the thing on and off to be 10 minute job!

The pics should make the following easy to understand (I hope!)

The center piece of this assembly is a TRITON part (see the drawing) – they make a range of saw/router tables and are Australian made and owned – based in Melbourne, Australia (my home town). The part number is DCA001 and can be obtained thru their USA or Canadian offices (John – Gourdfather purchased one. Very inexpensive!) Check out www.triton.net.au BE AWARE, the part number DCA001 is correct, Triton make several “similar” splitter guard fittings – this is the only one to use.

I started by making a 3⁄4” plywood bracket to bolt to the rear rail. (I used 1⁄4-20 set screws , the black square bolts in the User kit were too short). Attached to that, is a support bracket (a piece of 1/8” thick aluminum angle), which has two 1⁄4-20 threaded holes to support the whole splitter/guard assembly – easy-on, easy-off!

Next, cut a piece of 1/8” aluminum plate (splitter extension) to provide the link between the support bracket and the splitter. Use a piece of hardwood screwed to the flange on the Triton splitter (it’s “base” – the splitter is inverted for use on the BT3K) to tie it all together. Make sure the leading edge of the splitter extension is tapered (filed), just like any other splitter.

When attached, the Triton splitter sits about 1/8” into the throat plate. Because it is die-cast alloy there is no need for other support.
To also make the guard easy-on, easy-off; you will need to put a saw cut in the back (of the plastic guard). You can then slip it on from the front, and simply tighten the knob. Be very careful cutting this; it’s a very shallow cut, and you will need to “jury-rig” support to hold it vertical.

Once it’s all together, you will need to make sure everything is aligned with the saw blade. I had to bend the aluminum support angle a little, because the saw blade was not at 90 degrees to the rail.

With the guard off, there is 4-1⁄4” clearance. With the guard on, you can cut up to 2-1⁄4”.

Original PDF Document:
guard.pdf