This text is from a post on the Ryobi Power Tool Forum by Ed Ellickson titled "belt replacement" dated 9/13/98.
When I broke my belts installing a zero-clearance throat plate, the search engine was down. The tech place where I bought the replacement belts didn't provide much help or direction.
For those who have the problem later on, here is the procedure I figured out, which is quite fast:
- Unplug the saw.
- Remove the six screws holding the angled cover onto the left side of the saw and remove the cover.
- Remove the seven screws holding the dust cover on, then remove the cover.
- Remove the saw blade, guard, arbor spacers and nut.
- Remove 4 screws holding the slides together.
- Remove the 2 screws holding the arbor bearing in place. Pull straight out on the bearing assembly, exposing the two shafts and belt area.
- Fabricate a "spoon" tool. I used a foot-long piece of regular electrical conduit and made a 1" cut lengthwise through the middle of the tubing, then cut off one of the halves, creating a hollow tube / spoon lever or pry bar.
- Start the first belt with about 1/3 of its edge halfway onto the upper shaft (left side), and hold it with your left hand. Stick the spoon tool through the free end of the belt (hollow side toward the shaft) and using a right-handed circular motion, pry the bottom of the belt onto and around the lower shaft, while turning the upper pulley clockwise with the left hand. Once the belt is started on both shafts, prying with the tool in a circular motion on the lower shaft will stretch and work the belt back onto the shaft. Then, turn the upper shaft with a wrench or other tool.
- Repeat this process 3 or 4 times until the lower belt is seated. Remember, while you are turning the upper shaft with a wrench, as long as you hear a "snapping" sound, the belt is still moving back onto the upper shaft.
- When the first belt is all the way to the rear of both shafts, repeat the process with the second belt. When done, the second belt will be exactly flush with the outer edge of both shafts.
- If you haven't done so already, clean off all sawdust, etc. from everything.
- Using a dab or two (small) of wheel bearing grease or Vaseline, align the two flat shims onto the motor. (You should be able to tell the correct orientation by the wear marks on the shims). The two shims with the 90-degree bend mount onto the arbor bearing housing; again, their proper orientation can be determined by friction marks.
- Working carefully, just start the two screws holding the arbor bearing onto it's back plate. Then start the four screws holding the entire arbor bearing assembly. When all are started properly, tighten the two bearing screws alternatively, then tighten the other four screws last.
- If still needed and you are careful, mount the blade and the zero-clearance throat plate. After checking that the blade rotates freely, not binding on the throat plate or saw body, plug in the saw, turn it on, and by gradually raising the blade, cut the slot in the throat plate while you can see what's going on. (Wear glasses, because plastic bits will fly everywhere!)
- When done, re-install the dust catcher and the end panel and you are done! Total time 20-30 minutes, depending upon speed and dexterity.
Original PDF Document:
beltrepl.pdf
The Craftsman appears to be identical to BT3000. Documentation from Sears and Ryobi was not at all clear so we were pretty concerned. I think this will be VERY helpful. I'll let you know if we discover anything during final re-assembly of the Sears saw.
Bob Fess
928-565-2567
rnfess@gmail.com